| DERMATOLOGY | PEER-REVIEW
higher ceramide levels than those with darker skin types28
. The variation of the epidermal-dermal structure
has an impact on the photoageing pattern of different races.
Ageing patterns among different races Ageing is an inevitable phenomenon that results from the interaction between intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Photoageing is caused by chronic UV radiation and geographic proximity to the equator has a significant impact on this process. The genetic origin of an individual and the properties of the skin such as pigmentation, positioning of the facial muscles, and movement can significantly influence the ageing process. Other factors such as dietary habits, body mass index and cultural practices will also have an impact on this complex process. Photoageing can be revealed in many forms, especially as hyperpigmentation, wrinkling, and sagging of the skin. Although all skin types exhibit photoageing, darker skin types show signs at a more advanced age compared to lighter skin types. Wrinkling is the predominant problem for lighter skin individuals, while mottled pigmentation and uneven skin tone are predominant for darker skin types. The pattern was found to be variable among Asians, as some studies revealed predominant pigmentary problems in this group. A study by Chung et al., conducted on Korean patients revealed seborrheic keratosis type pigmentary lesions on males and hyperpigmented macules in females29
. A comparative study between Caucasian and
Japanese females revealed that the wrinkles and facial sagging were more prominent in the former group30
.
Among many other risk factors, ultraviolet (UV) radiation is one of the most important contributory factors for skin cancers31–33
. Well-pigmented darker skin types have an
inherent protection against developing skin cancers compared to lighter skin types. This association is clearly correlated with the Fitzpatrick skin types. The risk is also related to the sun-seeking habits of those with lighter skin types34
.
Cosmeceuticals and skin care Cosmeceuticals play an important role in the rejuvenation of the skin. An array of skin care products and cosmeceuticals exist on the market, each with their own merits and claims about providing superior-quality skin care. Despite the extensive availability of these products, the constant, tireless search for newer products never ceases. Cosmeceuticals contain active ingredients that have an
impact on the skin both aesthetically and therapeutically. The common types of cosmeceuticals are alpha hydroxyl acids, antioxidants, peptides, retinoids, sunscreens, and de-pigmenting agents. This group may also incorporate the moisturizers and exfoliants. The active components in these products have predictable results on the skin. According to the author, sunscreens should be considered the most important component for skin care.
Sunscreens should be
considered the most important component for skin care.
Regular use of sunscreens protects the skin against UV radiation, thus inhibiting photoageing and skin cancers. An efficient sunscreen contains ingredients that provide protection against UVA and UVB radiation. The common ingredients used in the broad-spectrum sunscreens are benzophenones,
cinnamates,
sulisobenzone, salicylates, titanium, zinc oxide, avobenzone and ecamsule35–37
.
Antioxidants reduce free radical damage and are often incorporated into anti-ageing products. Common antioxidants include L-ascorbic acid, niacinamide, alpha- lipolic acid, N-acetyl glucosamine, alpha-Tocopherol, and ubiquinone. L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) is a powerful antioxidant that can improve fine lines and reduce pigmentation38–40
. Alpha lipolic acid acts as an exfoliant and when skin41,42
applied topically helps to restore smoothness to the skin. Regular use of niacinamide has shown to improve the discolouration and pigmentation changes in the ageing . N-acetyl-Glucosamine is a stable
form of glucosamine that can be used to
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68