DESTINATIONS LISBON SPAIN & PORTUGAL


SAVE Sintra Boutique Hotel


Pretty Sintra, a one-hour train ride from Lisbon, is a great add-on to a city break. This cute and comfy hotel sits on a hillside overlooking the historic old town, and some


rooms have views of the 11th-century Moorish Palacio Nacional de Sintra Museum, just a few steps away. The neutral decor is lifted with tasteful touches of burnished gold, while


knowledgable reception staff go out of their way to help you plan your stay. Doubles from £100 a night. sintraboutiquehotel.com


SPEND Hotel Lisboa Plaza A short walk from Avenida de


Liberdade – the city’s main boulevard dotted with kiosks serving giant G&Ts and Korean food – this grand art nouveau building oozes old-world charm. Many rooms overlook the University of Lisbon Botanical


Gardens, a fantastical mix of old buildings, blooms and street art. The U-shaped terrace, perched above the city’s rooftops, is a lovely place


to chill out with a coffee or bottle of local vino. Doubles from £110 a night. lisbonplazahotel.com


SPLURGE AlmaLusa


Located in the city’s former arsenal in historic Praça do Município, this has fast become the hottest hotel in town since opening this March. The 28 rooms are a masterclass in understated luxury, with peaceful muted brown and grey tones and 100% percale cotton sheets. Original details include mosaic floor tiles that survived the 1755 earthquake and mirrors belonging to a barber shop that once operated here. Doubles from £125 a night. almalusahotels.com/baixachiado


13.00: Time Out Mercado da Ribeira


Amor. This former brothel has velvet chairs, chandeliers and risqué frescoes.


DAY TWO 09.00: Rise early to board the number 28 tram at Praça do Martim Moniz, beating the crowds. Buy a day pass for £5 from any metro station. The 1930s vehicles loop through historic Baixa, past the Se Cathedral in Alfama, the theatre district Chiado and up the steep hill to St George’s Castle.


10.00: Alight at the 11th-century castle (entry £7), to wander around archaeological ruins from the first known settlements. Stroll around gardens thick with cork oak, umbrella pine and olive trees, and the remains of the medieval royal residence. castelodesaojorge.pt


12.00: Ride the tram to Praça do Comércio, built after the devastating earthquake of 1755. Surrounded by grand ochre facades, an equestrian sculpture of King José I gazes towards the river. Board the lift to the wide terrace of neoclassical Rua Augusta Arch (£2.50), symbolising the resilient spirit of the city.


13.00: A 10-minute stroll west along Avenida Ribeira das Naus takes you to Time Out Mercado da Ribeira. This 13th-century fish market is now filled with bars, souvenir shops, food counters


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and long wooden tables. Grab lunch from top chefs like Marlene Vieira, with a seafood tasting plate for £10, and sip wild cherry liqueur for £1 at Casa da Ginja. timeout.com/market


15.00: Back in the square, the Lisboa Story Centre offers a fascinating, interactive journey through the city’s history, with a focus on the 1755 earthquake. lisboastorycentre.pt


18.00: After freshening up at your hotel, head to Miradouro Sao Pedro de Alcantara, on the edge of Principe Real. Locals bring wine and nibbles to watch the sunset drench the city sprawl below. A map made of tiles serves as a guide to the view, while the park is dotted with sculptures of Greco-Roman heroes and gods.


19.30: Continue five minutes northwest to Pizzeria Zero Zero (32 Rua da Escola Politecnica), named after the strong flour used in the dough. Pizzas from primavera to tuna (from £8), are baked in a central stone oven. pizzeriazerozero.pt


22.00: Head southeast and turn left on to Calçada da Patriarcal, then take another left on to Rua da Alegria to reach Hot Club of Portugal (48 Praça de Alegria). This tiny cellar bar is one of Europe’s oldest jazz clubs. Take a breather in the back garden. hcp.pt


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