SPAIN & PORTUGAL MURCIA DESTINATIONS


a time A whale of


Forget lounging around on the beach: Murcia has much more to get sporty types on side, finds Laura French


'M


adre mia!’ shouts our guide, in a rather alarming


tone that has me thinking our boat must be about to sink. But there’s no need to reach for the life jackets just yet; it turns out he’s spotted a giant sperm whale in the middle of the Med, and it’s putting on quite a show. Up out of the water, the


creature jumps, rearing a huge head and flopping back down with a gigantic slap against the water, in an attention-grabbing display that has all of us entranced. We’re on a marine trip off the


coast of Mazarrón in Murcia, a region that goes far beyond the sun, sand and sea formula that tends to be associated with Spain’s southern coast. Much of Murcia is in fact authentically Spanish, filled with sleepy villages, emerald vineyards and ancient religious buildings that tell of its rich cultural heritage. It also happens to be an adventure lover’s paradise, with hiking, biking, sailing and watersports aplenty taking place


A sperm whale flopped back down with a gigantic slap in a display that has all of us entranced


under blindingly blue skies and year-round sun. That makes it an ideal


destination for both active and culture types looking to escape the hordes of tourists they’ll find just a little farther east. And with average temperatures of 15C in November and 16C in April, it’s a good choice for those jetting off out of season.


◗ SPLASH TIME For watersports enthusiasts, the 150-mile long Costa Calida – located in the south and set partly on the secluded Mar Menor – ticks all the boxes. Among its highlights is Aguilas, a


Roman port town surrounded by dramatic cliffs and overlooking an expanse of deep blue, where diving, windsurfing, kayaking and paddleboarding are all on offer. I tried my hand at the last two, both of which are a great way to discover a handful of the 35 beaches lining the town’s coast. Nothing beats paddling your way in and out of rocky coves surrounded by clear, sparkling turquoise water. Over in Puerto Mazarrón, clients will find fishing, surfing and yet more diving, alongside a number of quiet sandy beaches. But for those after a more leisurely way to enjoy the water, a dolphin-watching trip is a surefire hit (€50 for adults). Although you might not be able to promise a sperm whale leaping up into the air, pilot whales are common, and we had a group of eight elegantly darting around our boat, coming so close that I got a rather unexpected spray in the face at one point. cetaceosynavegacion.com


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