36 San Diego Reader September 1, 2016
Gather No Moss TRAVEL STORIES AND TIPS FROM OUR READERS
lowed by our explora- tion around Movie Road.
A storm rolls in over the neighboring Sierra Nevadas Western ghosts in the
Alabama Hills By Mary Taylor
When thinking of the Owens Valley along Highway 395 in Central California, you might consider it a gas-station stop on your drive to ski Mammoth Mountain, or maybe a fishing area with numerous lakes stocked with trout. I think it abounds with the ghosts of old cowboy actors.
The Alabama Hills are a five-hour drive north, just off Highway 395. Of course, they don’t inhabit the entire Owens Valley but are concen- trated in the relatively small area around the town of Lone Pine and the adjacent Alabama Hills.
We were first attracted to the Alabama Hills because they were a place where you could camp “wild” among huge jumbled rocks. Lots of hiking, rock-climbing, and some offroad driving was right there and easily accessible. The scenery was breathtaking because only a few miles to the west were the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains towering more than 14,000 feet above you. But where do the cow-
boys come in?
As we explored the area, we figured out that when there’s a road named “Movie Road” something else is going on. A stop at the Lone Pine Chamber of Commerce — where a booklet was thrust into our hands promising real movie locations and featuring photos of actors in cowboy garb — offered another clue. But the most convincing evidence that cowboy ghosts existed was a tour of the Museum of Western Film History fol-
In the museum we saw photos of old cowboy stars like Tom Mix, Roy Rogers, Gene Autry, Tex Ritter, the Lone Ranger, Randolph Scott, and Audie Murphy with scenes shot in the sites we had been exploring. So they had been here,
all right — but were their ghosts still hanging around?
Our next step: grab the booklet and, using the maps and descriptions for ten different films, find the specific film sites. It was lots of fun lining up background mountains with specific rocks in the foreground to match movie scenes in the booklet. All we needed now were boots, cowboy hats, and a couple horses.
After immersing ourselves in all that film lore it was easy to feel the presence of the Lone Ranger calling out “Hi-ho Silver!” or Roy Rogers and the Sons of the Pioneers riding and singing “Tumbling Tumble Weeds.” I swear I might have seen Roy dis- appear around a rock just as I quickly turned my head to check out the possible smell of gunsmoke wafting through the rocks.
Maybe all this is wishful thinking, but if you follow the directions and put yourself into the scenes it’s easy to imagine that the cowboys from all those hours and years of filming might still be roaming the area.
Other Adventures The trail passes a grassland meadow en route to Granite Springs. M
ost visitors to Cuyamaca Rancho State Park see the reservoir, hike Cuyamaca and Stone-
wall peaks, and visit Green Valley, but fewer set out for the East Mesa, which is strange because this area contains some of the most spectacular and varied terrain in the park. This trail has it all — views of the mountains in the park and the Lagunas to the east, rolling grasslands, dense pine forests, shaded streams, and a steep descent into a rocky gorge, but it is not a hike for beginners. In the spring it abounds with flowers and is almost overgrown in places due to infrequent use. This hike can be done in one long day or as an overnight at the Granite Spring backcountry campground. There is also the option of two smaller loops for less mileage. The trailhead is at the parking area. Look for
the signed Harvey Moore Trail that starts off to the southeast and ascends steeply up 400 feet
to a saddle with a nice view of Oakzanita Peak to the south. A trail branches off left (northeast) after 1.6 miles. (This can be taken 1.3 miles back to the trailhead for a short loop or linked up with the Juaquapin Trail for a longer loop past the park headquarters.) Continue up through oak forest to the lovely rolling grassland of the East Mesa. Don’t for- get to look over your shoulder for views of Cuyamaca and Stonewall peaks. Pass the Dyar Spring Trail on the left (north), 1.1 miles after the last junction. (The Dyar Trail links back to the Juaquapin Trail for another potential shorter loop back to the trailhead.) Continue up the grassy slopes to the saddle where you are rewarded with a sweeping view of the Laguna Mountains off to the east. The trail curves down and north, joining the East
Mesa Fire Road and eventually the Granite Spring campground, 1.6 miles past the Dyar junction and 4.3 miles from the trailhead. The Granite Spring site has pit toilets, tent sites, horse corrals, and non-potable water. From the camp-
weeklyreader: Photogenic Dawson City
Win $25 for your travel tips or a Reader T-Shirt or hat for the best travel photo of the week. Go to SDReader
.com/travel for more information.
ground, head north up a hill back onto East Mesa, most of which is in a state wilderness area. The trail follows along an old fence to a grove of pine trees where, about 1 mile after the campground, it takes a sharp bend right (east). At this point, take the Harvey Moore Trail junction left (at an old gate, downed log, and faded sign). Wander through the shaded glen, often bursting with wildflow- ers. The trail soon takes
Find maps for the hikes and more Roam-O-Rama columns online at
SDReader.com/roam continued on page 38
Read before you go
SDReader.com/Travel
San Diego Outdoors with the Museum Canyoneers EAST MESA LOOP — CUYAMACA RANCHO STATE PARK
ROAM-O-RAMA
This rugged, less-visited, and gorgeous side of the park features mountain views, rolling grasslands, dark forests, and deep canyons.
Distance from downtown San Diego: 47 miles. Allow one hour driving time (Cuyamaca Mountains). Take I-8 E and exit at SR-79/Japatul Valley Rd. Drive north on SR-79, 7.7 miles to the large parking area on the right (east), just before the Sweetwater Bridge and one-half mile past the Green Valley Falls Campground. Hiking length: 9.8-mile loop, with potential overnight at Granite Spring campground. Difficulty: Strenuous. Elevation gain/loss 1100 feet. Trails are rocky. Facilities at the trailhead and at Granite Spring campground. Contact Reserve America for reservations at
reserveamerica.com or call 800- 444-7275. Untreated water at Granite Spring.
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96