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Town) were not ethni- cally pure. They were of mixed race — Californios or Spanish-Indian—and mixed customs. (I’m reminded by multiple historians that Span- ish galleons didn’t bring women along below deck; they took native women as their imperial right.) Post- conquest, the Pueblo was a cow pasture, dotted by a few ranches and roads. Cows, the Spanish cur- rency, were valuable for their hides, eventually becoming the “Califor- nia banknote.” The oldest commu-
nity, still residentially active, is the tourist piñata of Old Town, since 1968 a California State Historical Park, which over-leans on its Mexicanness. Abel Sil- vas’s family, the Machado y Silvas, had a home, built in the early 1840s, in the Pueblo, still standing. “My family lived in that house,” he tells me. “First we were Native Americans, then we became Spaniards,
Abel Silvas's family has been Indian, Spanish, Mexican, and American.
then we became Mexicans, then we became Ameri- cans — and we never moved from that house.” The early inhabit-
ants were ranchers and retired soldiers — and their broods. In the 1820s, families were bulging; it was not uncommon for a young mother to endure 15 pregnancies. Their names are local legend: Silvas, Serrano, Aguilar, Lopez, Valdez, Alipas, and Machado. (Silvas’s sfamily home, whose name at Old Town today is Casa Mach-
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J.A. Cooley turned down $6 million for a car.
ado y Stewart, has recently been reconstructed with an extensive vegetable garden, reminiscent of those raised by mid-1800 settlers.) Though the com- munity grew with a con- stant influx of freed slaves, sailors, traders, hunters, merchants, gold miners, land speculators, and the illicit of every stripe, only the most stable families erected the ring of adobe homes that still surrounds the Old Town plaza. Circa 1850, the com-
munity had grown to nearly 800 residents, so says a census, which counted taxpayers and left off the Kumeyaay and other indentured servants. In a town of 40 brown houses and 2 whitewashed ones, there was one horse-mill and no industries of civilization; everything was imported except what homemak- ers made — quilts, tal- low, furniture, clothing, and so on. For fun, resi- dents would take a cap-
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Bernard Cohen, 102, says "I feel fine."
tured grizzly bear, which remained plentiful up on the mesas, and rope it to a pronged steer: the two would fight to the death, as the tour guide notes, “such was their version of entertainment.” Old Town lost its
commercial mojo in 1867 to Alonzo Horton’s dream: “I could not sleep at night for thinking about San Diego, and at 2 in the morning, I got up and looked on a map to see where it was, and then went back to bed satisfied. In the morning, I said to my wife, ‘I am going to sell my goods and go to San Diego and build a city.’” He did, creating New Town, a few miles south where the city, nestled by the bay, still thrives, once a naval haven, now a craft- beer mecca.
Church To commune, a neigh- borhood also needs sacred places. Curiously, Old Town had no church for its inhabitants where soldier, sailor, merchant, and their families would share wedding or funeral. There was a chapel in the walled garrison on Presi- dio Hill, and Alcalá, six miles up the valley, had a sanctuary. But these buildings were taken over by troops (Span- ish, Mexican, American) needing to bivouac or else were burned by natives, enraged by the conquest. Old Town’s first parish
church became a reality
18 San Diego Reader September 1, 2016
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