Indigenous people of
the region, of whom the Kumeyaay are the most likely descendants, say their habitation here is 12,000 years and count- ing. In the building lust of the past two centuries, thousands of “pre-contact” native gravesites have been disturbed. Buried or cremated, the sites are unmarked. But tribal members know where the ancient ones lie. If bones are unearthed, they are left alone or reburied in a place where tribes revere the spot, not with a plaque but with a park or a tree, in some cases marking their “post-contact” disruption. The burial site is
sacred because the dead were ceremonially interred with prayers and music, at times with possessions. To intrude is to interrupt their spiritual ease — the peace of death and the abiding memory of their descendants — into which they were laid. In our county, the oldest dead are everywhere, beneath the concrete or dirt your feet are resting on.
House The Bacharach-David classic ballad got it right: “A house is not home.” A house is the materials: a shack or a shed, made of stone or adobe, a mud- daubed lean-to or an ‘Ewaa, the Kumeyaay hut made of willow branches. The oldest adobe house, still extant, dates from the Pueblo of San Diego (Old Town), called Casa de Carrillo, built “about the year 1810.” Or was it built in 1817 as Save Our Heritage contends? Or 1821, as the Califor- nia Historical Landmark No. 74 attests? A website and two plaques at the site — now a golf shop for the tiny nine-hole course west of the plaza — give these three compet- ing dates.
Narratively true is the
cross-ethnic romance, the spiciest lore of the old- est house. Comandante Francisco Maria Ruiz, a Spaniard, built this adobe next to an orchard of pear, pomegranate, and olive trees, some 35 in all, down the hill from the Presidio. Ruiz sold the house to a fellow soldier, Joaquin Carrillo, whose wife, Maria Ygnacia Lopez, had 13 children, 12 surviving to adult- hood. The Casa, “a center of social life and romance in the early Spanish days,” became the glue of the Pueblo of San Diego, its first neighborhood. Ruiz’s teenage daughter, Josefa, fell for the New England sea captain and trader, Henry Delano Fitch. Mas- ter Fitch ran the Mexican brigs, Maria and Leonor, up and down the west coast. The first American settler in San Diego, he became a Mexican citizen and was baptized a Catho- lic — hands played to win the 15-year-old Josefa. Her uncle and another man, the governor of Baja Cali- fornia, however, forbade marriage talk: the uncle hated Fitch and the gover- nor loved Josefa. And both were denied. Henry and Josefa eloped in 1829 and sailed to Chile on the brig Vulture, honeymooning as far away as possible. When the couple
returned a year later with a child, Josefa’s father,
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Joaquin, was livid: he had the pair arrested and jailed. Once Josefa fell on her knees and repented to her father, he forgave the pair and had a grand ball in their honor. Still, they had to undergo “an ecclesiastical trial . . . to determine the validity of their marriage.” Eventu- ally, the marriage was vali- dated, though Fitch had to pay an ecclesiastical fine: a 50-pound bell for a Los Angeles church. His later memoir contained one of the bitterest paybacks in San Diego history: “All those busybodies who had had too much to say about my marriage being unlawful may go to Hell and fuck spiders, and if you hear any of them speak any more about it please damn their eyes on my account.” For a time Fitch kept
the only store in Old Town, selling hides, tallow, and fur. Ambitious and gruff, he copped a second act, becoming San Diego’s first attorney. He was the last person buried at the Presidio, unearthed in an archaeological dig, and quickly covered back up. Of Casa de Carrillo,
Save Our Heritage Organ- isation, our preservationist watchdog, says that “this venerable 1817 house” is “shamefully being used as a clubhouse for the pitch- and-putt golf course in Old Town. Its woodwork is infested with termites
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and its fragile adobe walls are deteriorating from improper repairs.” Holding the roof on are mud-and- straw pan tiles, perhaps salvaged from the Presidio after its demolition. Save Our Heritage also charges that the Carrillo home is “indifferently maintained” by the City. Send money: the City has none to spend on renovation.
Neighborhood Again, I’ll cite the indig- enous: their villages go back 600 generations. Indeed, one estimate says that when Junípero Serra arrived in 1769 there were 310,000 people in Alta California, speak- ing some 100 languages. Of course, those stick- and-mud communities don’t exist anymore. Yet their interests — raising children, tending animals, cooking food, making music and crafts — con- tinue in the descendants. Native peoples have had to demand they be placed at the head of San Diego’s settlements. This is their homeland and the Span- ish conquest, Christianity in tow, still has not eradi- cated their sovereignty. The county still remains the home to 12 Kumeyaay bands, “federally-recog- nized” sovereign nations. What most San
Diegans don’t realize (me included) is that those who lived in the first official Pueblo (Old
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