Los Angeles, opened this North Park gem. Drive by at night and the neon letters blaze all red-yellow lantern-hot. Known for their (old-
This 1895 Benz Velocipede, or Velo, is San Diego’s oldest car.
chapel “was from the Pre- sidio Chapel and the Mis- sion San Diego de Alcalá and represents the earliest, most important and most beautiful collection that existed in California’s mis- sion system.” Though the city
bought this church and
property in 1937 and dis- mantled and reassembled the walls a couple yards back from the newly paved street — good streets mean more tour- ists — Coons and com- pany are seeking funds to restore the church, in particular, its statue of the
Immaculate Conception of the Most Blessed Virgin. This “Patroness of the City and Port of San Diego” is among the most innocent of Marys: she is robed in gold — her hair luxuri- ously long, her unworn hands fastened in prayer, and her gaze one of cher-
RESEARCH STUDIES
This double grave was found during an archeological dig.
ished surrender.
Restaurant When I was in music school, studying com- position, we had to take counterpoint—write two melodies that move against each other but also harmonize. A fellow student griped about the text, Gradus ad Parnas- sum, and its punishing exercises. Written in 1725 by Johann Fux, he found the treatise ancient, stale, useless. “If Fux was good
enough for Mozart,” the teacher said, “he’s good enough for you.” I labored, never get-
ting the hang of coun- terpoint. But it put me in mind of why classics survive. Take San Diego’s oldest restaurant, Pekin Café, also known as Chop Suey, an eatery pur- posely named after a dish: “Where does one get good chop suey around here?” Twas the urge in 1931, so Leo Fong, rumbling down Highway 1 from
style thrown-together) chop suey and their (new lightly breaded, real oranges) orange chicken, Pekin cabled three gen- erations together: Leo (a centenarian when he died) and wife, daughters (two still waitress) and son (who married a woman raised in Mexico) whose three daughters hustle up to-go orders and staff the till. Stephanie, 30, the youngest of the third gen- eration, details for me the family story, part of which comes from the lore of long-term customers and facts from the Wiki of contemporary cuisine, Food Network. Grandpa Fong traded
produce, hired cooks, ran supplies, bought the storefront and decked it with red-leather booths, a weekend dance band, and gewgaws of a roman- ticized Canton, the café’s provincial fare. Canton- ese-American means mild spice, large portions, and stolid decor, as well as out-of-towner loyalty to a traditional food that’s going out of style. It seems
TOO MUCH? We want to help
DRINKING
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22 San Diego Reader September 1, 2016
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