News
‘GORDON RAMSEY EFFECT’ BLAMED FOR DECLINE IN NUMBER OF FEMALE CHEFS
● Analysis of government �igures reveals macho kitchen culture and unforgiving hours deter women from top jobs The “Gordon Ramsay
effect” of a macho kitchen culture and balancing unsociable hours while having children have been blamed for a decline in the number of female chefs, as revealed by an analysis of government �igures by The Independent. Despite the rise of female role models such as the
Great British Bake Off’s Mary Berry, and Hélène Darroze, whose restaurant
at the Connaught Hotel in London has two Michelin stars, the number of women working as chefs or cooks has been in decline from the start of this century. In 2001, there were 126,000 – representing 48 per cent of the workforce. But by 2010 the number had fallen to 107,000 – with the proportion down to 37 per cent. Today, while women hold around three- quarters of jobs as cooks, they account for fewer than one in �ive chefs – 46,000. A growing number of �igures from the world of food are now
demanding action to encourage more women to pursue culinary careers. In a thinly veiled attack on macho culture exempli�ied by chefs such as Gordon Ramsay, Swiss chef Anton Mosimann said: “Television has played a great part in persuading many to take up a profession in the kitchen, but equally many who are enthusiastic about food might be put off by the perception that all kitchens are stressful environments with foul language and abusive behaviour; a practice that I abhor and have never permitted in any kitchen where I have worked.” He added: “There are
some female chef role models, but they do not tend to attract the attention of the media in the same way as the more vocal male chefs have done.” A spokesperson for Mr Ramsay did not respond to a request for comment. Some female chefs admit that they have had to choose between having children and a career. Sarah Barber, executive pastry chef at Hotel Café Royal in London, said: “I knew since the beginning that this was a job which, in the best
cases, would occupy my day for a minimum of 12 to 14 hours: in these conditions, having a family and raising a child would not only have been a challenge, but very much impossible.
“Giving up family and kids for my career is a sacri�ice which I happily made, but still it is a sacri�ice.”
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In recent years women have become top chef
at some of Britain’s best- known restaurants. Last year Kim Woodward became the �irst ever female head chef at the Savoy Grill in London. Ms Darroze has been
awarded two Michelin stars for her eponymous restaurant at The Connaught hotel in London,
while Spanish chef Nieves Barragan Mohacho heads up Barra�ina in London, which was named Britain’s best restaurant at last year’s National Restaurant Awards. And Clare Smyth, the �irst female chef in Britain to be awarded and retain three Michelin stars, is chef patron at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in London.
remains, according to Lyndy Redding, managing director
But a wider problem
at catering and events company Absolute Taste. “Women chefs are not seen as long-standing chefs in the business because people don’t think that they will last but instead go off and have families,” she said. “We need to champion
female chefs that are not just restaurant chefs. Running or owning a restaurant is hard for a male or female chef, but there are many female chefs out there who are not running a restaurant but they can still be a great role model to encourage females to come into the kitchen.” ●
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www.highwealddairy.co.uk The Delicatessen Magazine 7
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