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walking and interacting with the locals. He found a couple of authentic restau- rants and a grocery store so he could do his own cooking. Te beach was beautiful. At high tide the waves lapped against the stairs that led from his house to the water, but low tide gave way to a massive stretch of sand. "At least 350 feet of beach was uncovered at low tide for miles up and down the shoreline," Gen recalls. "One day I was walking and discovered a spot where several locals were gathering. I was curious, so I went over to see what they were doing. One boy showed me how they used a hammer and chisel to open oysters stuck onto the uncovered rocks. It was fantastic. Tey just invited me to sit and eat fresh, raw oysters with them. Later, I saw a man using salt wa- ter and lime to catch something in the sand, and went to watch." Turns out he was catching razor fish, or pez navaja, a local delicacy. "I went for a long walk every morning and looked for shells and sand dollars that washed up on the shore. During the day it was too hot to wander around in the sun. Temperatures ranged be- tween 35 C and 40 C in the heat of the day," says Gen. "One morning I was watching this little crab. He looked like he was chewing sand and spitting it out, making this really intricate picture on the beach. I had seen the designs in the sand for days but finally realized how they were made. It was really in- teresting to watch." Panama is known as the Country of Festivals, as they have a festival for just


Locals scouring the rocks for oysters.


Festival of 1,000 Dresses in Las Tablas.


about everything. Te Festival of 1,000 Dresses was held while Gen was in Las Tablas. Women and girls were out showing off their finest. Te dresses, ei- ther brilliant white or multi-coloured, blowsy


numbers, were embellished


with embroidery. Finally it was time to head back


home, but not without a stop in Pana- ma City for a couple of days. Gen took a bus tour of the city and visited the famed Panama Canal, where he was lucky enough to see several ships go- ing through. "It is quite the city, and there, too, people were very friendly and helpful," he says. After staying in five-star resorts for the last several years and travelling in the company of family, this trip was definitely different. But, when you ask Gen if he would do it again, he doesn't even hesitate. "Absolutely, but I might bring someone with me if I plan to stay that long again."


Local boy shows Gen how to shuck oysters.


Fresh oysters on the beach.


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Summer 2015 • 69


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