CROMLIX Which is fine, too. As is the fact there’s one
of those open-plan kitchens that notionally allow customers to gawp at the chefs as they prepare your food. Notionally because, actu- ally, you can’t see very much at all. Also fine is the fashionable promise to use local ingredients wherever possible; a promise only marginally spoiled by the fact the mineral water is Welsh. You have a choice: the daily menu offers three
courses of simple bistro-style food for £29.50 but, not least because Viennoise and rhubarb were each mis-spelt on the menu the day we visited, we opted for the a la carte. A leek terrine with langoustines (£13) was as restrained as it was elegant; the leeks being meltingly soft and the langoustines perfectly-cooked. A truffle jus added just the right amount of sophistication. On the other side of the table, Albert Roux’s
twice-baked cheese soufflé (£9.50) arrived as a cloud-stuffed pillow floating on a lake of cream. This signature dish – famous from Roux’s three-star London flagship Le Gavroche – was a triumph: astonishingly light and soft, yet also magnificently deep and rich. Ignoring the temptations of skate and steak
respectively, stuffed roast saddle of rabbit with carrot puree, wild mushrooms and a tarragon jus (£18) proved just as much of a woodland feast as I’d hoped. The earthiness of the mush- rooms offset the sweetness of the carrot and the rabbit was perfect: moist, tender and delicious. This little Thumper did not die in vain. The feather blade of veal braised in Madeira
and served with pureed spring vegetables and fondant potato (£18.50) was not quite as successful. The veal was grand: as delicate yet nourishing as it should be but, once gravy was added, the rest of the dish became a swampy mess. Tasty, but still a swamp. A warm chocolate tart with hazelnut ice
FIELD FACTS
PRICE Dinner for two, including pre- dinner drinks, coffee and a bottle of wine: £145 RATING
Cromlix Hotel, Kinbuck near Dunblane, Perthshire Tel: 01786 822125
www.cromlix.com
cream (£8) was exactly as advertised – save for being served cold. A reminder, perhaps, that this restaurant is still finding its feet. On the other hand, rhubarb croustillant with vanilla cream and raspberry sorbet (£8) was much better: the rhubarb, poached in a simple syrup, offered the right balance of sweetness and tartness. Service was attentive and helpful but also
unobtrusive. I’d have been happy to tip more than 10 per cent but since a service charge is added automatically saw no reason to do so. Cromlix is plainly going to do very well. It
is just the right kind of place for a special occa- sion. You will eat well in Chez Murray-Roux and if you cannot accuse Cromlix of resting upon its laurels then that is perhaps chiefly because those laurels have not yet been earned. Not yet and not quite. But give them time. Like Wimbledon champions, these things are not built in a day.
chef’sCHOICE Sean Kelly, head chef at The Lovat Hotel in Fort Augustus, picks his six favourite restaurants
THE TORRIDON, ACHNASHEEN, WESTER ROSS They have a new chef here and the food is uncomplicated but fantastic. My favourite dish was a simple spelt grain risotto. The flavours were great. I also had some wonderful
canapés, which were like langoustine-based quavers. 01445 700300;
www.thetorridon.com
ROCPOOL RESTAURANT, INVERNESS I’ve had a few good meals here. The food is classical but extremely well done. The ambience and service are both very impressive and above all they serve very well cooked food.
01463 717274;
www.rocpoolrestaurant.com
THE MUSTARD SEED AND THE KITCHEN BRASSERIE, INVERNESS These sister restaurants both offer friendly service and great value for money. They serve up simple food and do great lunch deals. The Kitchen has great views of
Inverness Castle and The Mustard Seed is in a converted church building. 01463 220220/01463 259119;
www.mustardseedrestaurant.co.uk/www.
kitchenrestaurant.co.uk
THE STOREHOUSE, EVANTON, ROSS-SHIRE
This is where we like to go on a Sunday for simple soup and sandwiches or a delicious roast. It’s in a great location by the river and you can sit outside if the weather is
good. There is plenty of local produce to be found here. 01349 830038;
www.thestorehouseathome.com
THE WHEELHOUSE, FALKIRK When we make it down to central Scotland we head to The Wheelhouse for great steak and chips in the shadow of the Falkirk Wheel. Great food at reasonable
prices. 01324 673490;
www.wheelhousefalkirk.com
BOATH HOUSE, AULDEARN, NAIRN This one is at the high end of the market but they do some great lunch deals. The food is classical and brilliant. The kitchen garden provides much of the produce for
the restaurant as do local growers, producers and foragers. 01667 454896;
www.boath-house.com
YOURSAY
what do you think of sean’s CHOICES? LET US KNOW AT
WWW.SCOTTISHFIELD.CO.UK
WWW.SCOTTISHFIELD.CO.UK 171
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