Beauty - Toners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tone up
The negative connotations surrounding toners date back to when its primary purpose was to remove remaining cleanser post-wash while balancing skin’s pH levels. This process employed drying ingredients which left the face feeling taut and flaky.
“The toner would strip the skin of its natural hydro-lipid barrier, leaving it vulnerable to evaporation of water and penetration of pollutants and airborne bacteria,” explains Sally Penford, Education Manager for International Dermal Institute®. Improved knowledge and consequent product developments have however enabled the toner to reinstate its place in the ‘cleanse, toner and moisturise’ mantra.
Water-soluble cleansers have been developed, which clean the skin without damaging it. Relieved of their old duties, toners are now blended with a cocktail of active ingredients which treat the skin in a new way; replenishing, calming, brightening, rebalancing and repairing where required.
Toners can help with the absorption of additional treatments too. Claire Muir, Director of Training for Environ, explains that toners prepare the skin and can help maximise the penetration of these products while having skin reparative properties – benefits everyone can enjoy.
Which one’s which? A short skin care consultation with your client will help to establish their skin type. From here you can select the correct toners from the three different types available.
Clare O’Hanlon, Business Development Manager at Juliette Armand Skincare explains these options: “Alcohol-based formulas often include astringent ingredients such as Witch Hazel. Water and glycerin or glycol-based formulas [contain] fragrant extracts such as Rose water or citrus fruits [and] water-based formulas are loaded with beneficial ingredients such as skin repairing substances and antioxidants.”
Carefully thought out, toners have been prepared with an assortment of contents to match a variety of skin types. As Salon Shop explain, using toner on oily skin can
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By soaking two cotton pads, the product can be wiped upwards from the base of the neck and then outwards on the face.
help reduce shine, breakouts and tighten pores; toners on combination skin can be applied solely to the T-zone to help balance skin pH and absorb oil while toning waters or lotions will help to hydrate and smooth dry skin.
Toners that include Alcohol can cause free- radical damage and irritation, damaging the skin’s ability to repair itself and should be avoided. However, modern toners are often water-based and contain active ingredients with plant extracts and essential oils to pamper the skin rather than parch it.
Other toner characteristics to look out for include ingredients such as antioxidants, skin repairing substances such as glycerin, fatty acids and ceramides which help to repair and restore the tissue.
In routine Advise your client to put a few pumps of their chosen toner onto a cotton pad and wipe across their face morning and evening. Clare explains that this should be repeated until the cotton disk is clean.
“Starting from the base of the neck will work against gravity and won’t drag the skin down any more than it already is, and working outwards will have a draining effect as you will encourage the waste elements in the skin out of the lymph nodes situated around the edge of the face,” explains Salon Owner and Beauty Trainer, Marie-Louise Coster.
If clients are short of time, a spray-on toner might be useful. Applied onto the skin in the morning after cleansing or throughout
the day over make-up, it acts as a refreshing pick-me-up to supply skin with the essentials it needs.
“The spritz may be of a hydrating nature with humectants to bind water or a soothing toner that leaves anti-inflammatory botanicals on the skin to calm and soothe. Whatever the choices, make sure that your [client’s] cleanser is removing the grime, [their] toner enhancing the hydro-lipid film and [their] moisturiser protecting and sealing in all of those great ingredients,” recommends Sally.
Coupled up Many brands already have corresponding toners to accompany their cleanser or moisturiser. This is a great place to start when making a choice for your client as it will also help boost your retail sales when purchased as a package.
“Toners should go hand in hand with cleansers just like serums go hand in hand with moisturisers. Both complement each other,” explains Clare.
“I always relate [the pair] to everyday things so as clients understand, so just as they wouldn’t have cornflakes without milk, or Ant without Dec, they shouldn’t have a cleanser without a toner. The two together are essential for the skin to ensure that the skin is clean and prepared so as their moisturiser can work effectively,” concludes. Marie-Louise.
Please turn the page to reveal some of the latest toners available on the market…
Image ©
istock.com/Zinkevych
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