Modeling Seaboard Coast Line E3/E6 No. 501 5. 6.
5. The mounting holes for the single chime horns have been filled in and sanded flush. The plastic lift rings were shaved off and re- placed with metal ones for durability. 6. The rear opening has an apparatus within it that the author believes to be a cooling grid. This was built from styrene. A styrene frame is built around the inside of the opening giving the metal screen a surface to adhere to. 7 & 8. The engine’s framework shows through the intakes. This is modeled using styrene strips.
7. 8.
opening and then test fitted each screen. A thin bead of cyanoacrylate around the frame is enough to hold the screen. Just be careful to not fill up the mesh with cyanoacrylate. That will show up when the engine is painted. My undecorated E6 was a single headlight unit so I needed to add the lower headlight. It is worth mentioning that Broadway Limited does make an undecorated E6 with the dual head- light setup. I found the center of the headlight I wanted to add and drilled a small pilot hole. I then drilled a larger hole and used a round file to make the exact size I needed. I utilized a ⁷₃₂″ di- ameter styrene tube for the headlight. I rounded the outer edge slightly with a sanding stick and used cyanoacrylate to glue the headlight in place. There is a small panel below the cab on either side of the locomotive as well as a large square bump on top of the cab roof that needed to be removed. I
44
filed these smooth and then used a lit- tle Squadron®
putty to repair the dam-
age. While I was working with the cab, I added the Nathan M5 horn as well as the small vent above the fireman’s side windshield. I made that vent from scrap styrene bits. On the nose of the locomotive, just above the coupler, is some sort of buffer plate. I used .100″×.188″ (Evergreen No. 178) and .015″×.125″ (Evergreen No. 116) styrene to make this part. A little bit of the body at the anticlimber needs to be removed to attach this piece to the engine. A small strip of .015″×.040″ (Evergreen No.
112)
styrene was attached to the carbody just above the buffer plate. Since most of the heavy body work had been accomplished, I started adding the etched brass parts that I had PPD Ltd. make for me (see page 50). The first parts I added were the side body panels. I separated the panels from the frets
and attached .030″×.030″ (Evergreen No. 131) styrene strips to the backside edges of the panels as bracing. The brass is .008″ thick so it does want to curl a bit. The styrene strips will add rigidity as well as a surface to attach to the body of engine.
The middle porthole window has one of those structural members showing. This was etched as a separate part and was added to the inside of the brass panel.
There is an etched rivet strip that
was added to the end of the rear body panel. This covered the seam between the plastic body and the brass panel. Cyanoacrylate was used to glue all of the parts together. I also added the en- gineer’s side stirrup, sand filler hatch- es, headlight plates, rear ladder and lift rings at this time. With all of the etched parts applied, I
added the rest of the details. Grab irons are by Tichy and were added us-
MAY 2014
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