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Modeling Seaboard Coast Line E3/E6 No. 501


MIKE RUDINSKY: DENVER, CO; AUG. 8, 1972


In its final year of service, the 501 awaits an assignment in Richmond, Virginia (left). Af- ter it was purchased by Richard McKinley, it was moved to Denver (above and right). Note the inverted white pails on the stored E-unit’s exhaust stacks to keep out rain and snow. These photos show the arrangement of the side portholes and louvers.


I decided to replace the plastic lift rings with Detail Associates metal eye- bolts. These are more durable and will hold up under handling. I sliced the plastic lift rings off with my hobby knife and drilled new holes with my pin vise and a No. 80 bit. I also filled in the holes on the roof where the single chime horns were to be mounted. The 501 had a Nathan M5 horn installed rather than a pair of single chime horns.


I added frames built from MARTY BERNARD: RICHMOND, VA; JAN. 17, 1970


neer’s side stirrup, twin-sealed beam headlight panels, lift rings, sand fill hatches, m.u. covers and end ladder. The model had some mold seam lines the


around cab area that I filed


smooth. I highlighted them with a pen- cil and then sanded them smooth with a set of sanding sticks. The pencil marks show where the seams are and make it easier to see when the seams are sanded smooth. I finished the sur- face with some 1500-grit sandpaper. I used the pencil again to mark up the sides of the locomotive. I colored in the areas that I needed to cut out. These included the panels around the porthole windows as well as the screened-in air intakes below the roofline. The model has some fine molded screen, but I decided it would look nicer if I cut openings and added metal screen. To cut out the panels, I drilled a series of ¹₁₆″ holes with a pin vise and then connected them with a sharp No. 11 hobby knife blade. I also used an X-Acto®


saw blade to make the


longer cuts. Sanding sticks and files were used to clean up the cuts and make them straight. The rivet strips were used as a guide to where I should


42 MAY 2014 1.


stop sanding. It was pretty easy to see where I needed to stop filing, so I wasn’t too worried about the cuts being crooked and uneven.


.015″×.040″ styrene strips (Evergreen No. 112) around the inside of the screened air intakes below the roofline. The inside edge of the styrene should be even with the interior of the body. The carbody has structural beams that show in some of the intakes and


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