q&a by dermalogica question time Candice Gardner answers your skin care questions
Q: I amfrequently asked aboutmanaging teenage Acne. Can cosmetic products have a positive impact on a condition governed by hormonal changes?
A:Modern skin care products can indeed influence skin condition as we have come a very long way with ingredient science. But we do need to be realistic andmanage expectations, because you are correct in recognising that hormones are driving the Acne condition.
In line with this we also need to emphasise thatAcne is the result of a genetic
predisposition.The severity of individual cases will be, for themost part, linked to the degree to which specific skinmalfunctions are related to inherited genetic coding.
Children entering puberty will see an increase in oil production fromonset of adrenalmaturation which precedes reproductivematuration, and as such will benefit fromestablishing good skin care habits early.
Introduction of a facial wash that can lift excess sebumand keep follicles clear would be the obvious first
step.Make sure this wash is acid balanced to compliment the skin’s natural antibacterial pH as this will be gentler on the skin and also avoid stripping the protective barrier. Regardless of age, this will always be the first step to implement
when establishing a regimen tomanage the condition.Whatmany teens do not realise is that in their quest for clear skin, fastidious over cleansing is counter-productive. If you strip the skin it will try to rebalance and in so doing producemore
oil.An effective facial wash will clean without any of the potentially harsh side effects, and without resulting inmore oil andmore breakouts. Excellent botanicals that support the purification and soothe younger skins includeTeaTree,Meadowsweet and Lavender.
Breakout treatments have also come a long way too. Research into newer ingredients like Niacinamide (vitamin B3) has shown excellent sebumregulating results, without the harsher drying effects or sensitivity potential ofmany older stalwarts like Benzoyl Peroxide. Coupled with ingredients like Colloidal Silver to boost healing and reduce inflammation, breakouts can be minimised and improved in amatter of days.
So whilst you will not necessarily prevent the breakouts fromsurfacing as these will be under the direct influence of fluctuating hormone levels, a sensible skin care regimen that capitalises on advanced ingredient benefits will reduce the severity and length of time breakouts take to heal.
There will always be cases wheremedical intervention is a
necessity.Monitor progress and ensure that any skin care recommendations are appropriate when young clients are using both topical and oral medications to prevent side effects and over processing of the skin.
Q: When do I recommend eye creams become a regular addition to a skin care routine?
A:The skin around the eyes is extremely thin and delicate – in fact only about the
Candice Gardner is Education CurriculumManager UK&Eire for the International Dermal Institute. Formore information telephone 08000 564 544 or visit
www.dermalinstitute.co.uk
thickness of five sheets of paper. Despite its delicate nature it is subject to constant movement as we blink asmany as 20,000 times a day (more if eyes are irritated), and we create a lot of facial expressions using the
eyes.Thismeans that the area is particularly vulnerable to signs of ageing, stress and sensitivity. Eye creams are specifically formulated to target these issues whilst taking into account the unique needs of the sensitive skin tissue.
Determining age for recommendation will be based on a variety of factors. Start with genetics. Consider Fitzpatrick type and general skin type. Fairer skin, allergy / eczema prone, sensitive and dry conditions will find that the tissue is strained at an earlier age andmay degenerate a little quicker than darker and oilier skins.
Also take into account sun exposure, smoking and general environment as these factorsmight accelerate signs of ageing and irritation of the delicate skin.
It is common to introduce an eye cream fromabout 25 years old if the customer is an established skin care user. But this could be earlier if the skin tissue around the eyes needs targeted support or later if the client has healthy tissue condition, and has a less complex daily routine.
Once into the thirties collagen density will reduce at a rate of 1%per year in the skin generally. Because the eye skin is already thinner the changes will becomemost noticeable around the eyes often before it shows in any other region of the face or neck. By age 30, it is advisable to be introducing an eye creaminto the regular routine to ensure the correct level of protection of this vulnerable tissue.
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