NEWS BFA News “I would rather have stallions I hold back than donkeys I beat.” So said a
former boss of mine when describing who he wanted working on his team. And the more I think of the UK footwear industry, the more I am
reminded of what a herd of stallions they are in the face of huge adversity and pressure.
Let’s start with the manufacturers, for so many years the beating heart of the industry and who are all producing excellent results and record turnover. This certainly applies to the traditional high grade mens manufacturers who are enjoying great export success (including a growing number of their own shops in London and elsewhere) and are riding the wave of the “Made in Britain” success story.
For example, Churchs, Crockett & Jones, John Lobb, Edward Green,
Barkers, Trickers, Loakes and Cheaneys are all reporting substantial interest in their products. Newer brands like Gaziano & Girling, Solovair, DB Shoes, Gina and Grenson are rapidly making inroads into their respective markets.
Also don’t overlook the incredible niche producers like Alt Berg,
William Lennon and Freed - view their websites and be amazed. But this success also applies to UK manufacturers who are competing with
Far East production. For example Hotter and New Balance between them produce an amazing 45% of all the shoes made in this country and are taking on, and beating, alternative sources of supply in the Far East and elsewhere.
Then there are those companies bringing back production from Asia – Florida (Van Dal), Doc Martens and Padders have all invested in building their UK production and have reaped the marketing advantage of this as well as the cost benefits.
Turning now to the next sector of the footwear industry, the importers:
Again we see success being achieved by persistence, inventiveness and tough management. Firstly, there are those companies making a considerable virtue of designing and sourcing their own brands. Clarks, Pentland, Jacobson (Gola, Frank Wright), Base, Hudson, Fit Flop, Jeffrey West, Hi-Tec Sports, Oliver Sweeney, Steptronic, Shalimar, Start-Rite all come to mind and all have developed fantastic levels of business outside this country as well as in it.
There are also many importers who supply the High Street as their main
activity. Here we can quote Jacobson, Elan Polo, Sutton, Warner, Gardiner Brothers, Goldline, Kenyons, Kidderminster, Shubiz, Laceys, Park Lane, Phildon, T & A and William Lamb. They have all coped with an increasingly expensive sourcing cost base, narrower retail margins and a generally unhealthy High Street environment – but all have more than survived.
The third and last grouping are the up and coming brands, often run by
owner/drivers and sometimes under financed but all succeeding in highly competitive markets. Think CocoRose and Butterfly Twists in the “folding shoe” market and Esska, Miista, Kat Maconie, Joanne Stoker, Beyond Skin, French Sole, Julian Hakes, JuJu, Miss L Fire, Paradox in the ladieswear area. Think also of Northern Cobbler, Govan Originals and Chatham Marine for innovative menswear and you will get a feel for the amazing British talent that is making a bold and successful statement in world markets.
8 • FOOTWEAR TODAY • AUGUST 2013
Richard Kottler CEO BF
A
One of the things I most admire about the aspiring young entrepreneurs in the British footwear industry is their get up and go attitude. Many start ups - especially those selling shoes retailing above £250 – find it difficult to locate good outlets for their product in the UK. There is a shortage of better quality independent retailers able to sell at these prices whilst footwear distribution in the major store groups is in the hands of two major concessionaires.
This leads to many of these brands seeing export markets as their Holy
Grail despite the complications and cost implications of following this strategy. Many of the companies the BFA takes to shows like MICAM, GDS and Platform at Magic fall into this category and you have to admire the guts shown, and sacrifices made, by the brand owners to win overseas business.
Two other interesting facts that I think help explain the doggedness and enthusiasm exhibited by our footwear industry:
Nearly 100% of companies are privately owned whether this is the giant’s
like Clarks and Pentland or the tiny start-ups. All of which are managed by people who deeply care about their companies, and do not have to answer to the short-term thinking often prevalent with outside shareholders.
The second is that most companies have reacted to the many economic
troubles of the last five years by diversifying. For example, 40% of manufacturers are retailers as well; nearly 70% of all BFA member companies have an interactive website; and 50% of importers have their own brands as well as supplying the High Street. The number of companies adding export to their domestic activity has increased by nearly 20% over the last few years.
All in all, you may now see why the BFA is so proud to serve and support such an enterprising group of interesting, energetic and successful companies that comprise the British Footwear Industry.
Donkeys no, stallions yes! ,
British Footwear Association Ltd Tel: +44 (0) 1933 229005
Web:
www.britishfootwearassociation.co.uk www.footweartoday.co.uk
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