the altitude. Unlike other cities where the wealthy live at the top with the poorer at the base of the valley, it was the reverse there as houses at the top tend to slip down the hillsides, killing large numbers each year. An early evening meeting had been arranged and this saw all my fellow tour participants meet up in the hotel for a briefing from Brendan, as well as an introduction to Leo our support vehicle driver. I then headed for an excellent restaurant with Chris, Debbie, Enrico and
Tanya, all from Australia. The BMW GS 650 F bikes were allocated complete with useful top boxes and after a short familiarisation ride with slow and steady the order of the first day.
The following morning tour leader Brendan introduced himself and gave me a rundown on what was to follow, including the need to acclimatise to the altitude. You really do need to take things slowly, because even a gentle flight of steps can leave you gasping for breath until your body gets to grip with the lack of oxygen. A gentle morning tour of the highest capital city in the world had been arranged to help me unwind and get to grips with the culture and deal with
According to the schedule and the routes we had been issued with (paper maps are given to back up the Sat Navs on the bikes) we should have headed out of town and towards the border with Peru, crossing it and then continuing to Puno on the banks of Lake Titicaca. However, Brendan had heard from local contacts spaced all along our tour route, that the political situation in Peru was a little volatile and the roads would be covered in rocks to prevent travel. With safety being the priority, he re-routed us to Copacabana (not the one in the Barry Manilow song) on the Bolivian side of the lake. Lunch on the first day was courtesy of Leo our back up driver who produced tables and fresh food appeared from the cavernous trailer. This was to be the standard for most days with ‘hungry’ an unknown word. We headed down for the crossing* point that justifies the Bolivian Navy’s existence (Bolivia is land locked!) The ferry consisted of large barges with planks of wood powered by a single outboard motor. The hotel that was to be ours for two nights was right on the front with stunning views and five star food and accommodation. Lake Titicaca, at 12,530 feet, is the highest navigable lake in the world and so large it has waves. Billed as one of the new Seven Wonders of the world Its 3100 square miles separate Peru from Bolivia. An early start was called for the next day in order to clear the border crossing into Peru. An amazingly quick three hours had us on our way to Puno. Heavy traffic and congestion did not endear it to anybody. The roads varied between tarmac with interesting curves, rough potholed stretches and long boring straights. Traffic was mainly light apart from around the villages and towns, but the BMWs were coping well and dealing
Above: The things you can do with a Chinese motorcycle. The Norton Rats bikers bar commands a splendid view of The Plaza de Armas. Statues at Chivay, the Gateway to the Colca Canyon. Below Compass offer serious back up. Llamas need no introduction.
34 The ROAD
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