the internet. Broadband access through the wireless network is available on board by purchasing a USB key from Telcel, a major carrier in Mexico. It’s relatively reasonable and has provided bandwidth in some startlingly desolate places. There’s no big commitment; in fact, it’s only month-to-month, and seems to be available only to non- Mexican nationals (we had to present a passport at the Telcel office to acquire our “banda ancha” card). For staying in touch with home, don’t rule out the good ol’ post office. We had been leery of relying on US postal service letters reaching us, but our worries were unfounded. Our children were delighted to receive letters from their grandparents with no problem whatsoever. I’d be cautious about sending anything 3D or valuable, but flat mail is easy.

If we could do it again

If we were heading for Mexico all

over again, there are a few things we’d do differently. I would have anticipated spending blocks of time in a few places where we could enroll the children in school to fast track their Spanish skills

try to get farther south. Our southern terminus was Zihuatenejo, but we have heard raves about the empty anchorages and beaches south of there, particularly below Acapulco. I’d also make more of an effort to explore inland, from cultural centers like Guadalajara to natural parks (“parks” not being the right word here) like the Copper Canyon. It is tempting to wonder with 20/20

and foster local friendships. While we found something to love about nearly every place we visited, there are a few particular jewels where we’d linger: the far reaches of the Sea of Cortez (for stark desert beauty and solitude), Tenacatita (for the cruiser playground in paradise), and Banderas Bay (which we rank as possibly the best sailing on the west coast of the Americas: consistent daily sea breezes and flat water).

There are a few places we’d work

to get to: I wish we’d seen more of the small towns on the outside of Baja. We took our time between Ensenada and Cabo, we missed many nooks that begged to be explored. We’d also

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hindsight what it would have been like to follow friends who continued last year down to Central and South America or crossed the Pacific. On Totem, we have no regrets about the relatively extended time we chose to stay in Mexico. Although we covered less ground, our slower pace this first year was enjoyable and unforgettable. When this April issue of 48° North hits the streets, we’ll be departing from Mexico for the Marquesas, full of good memories and fully prepared for what the future holds.

This month, “Totem” will be posting

updates from their Pacific crossing to their blog as they depart from Mexico for the Marquesas. Follow along at: www.sv-totem.com.

YAGER

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48° NORTH, APRIL 2010 PAGE 43

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