TRAVEL Guadalupe Tops Mexican Celebrations by Greg Niemann I
f there was ever a country that enjoys fiesta time, it’s Mexico. It doesn’t take much for workers to lay down their tools, pick up a beer, and crank up the
music. There are all types of Mexican par- ties, and for those who prefer a more rev- erent occasion, you might enjoy my favorite, December’s La Dia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe (Day of Our Lady of Guadalupe).
Other celebrations Religious holidays like Guadalupe join
Young girl in a procession in Ziuatanejo.
the secular parties like birthdays, Hal- loween, and Mexican Independence Day (September 16). Among Christian holidays, Easter and Christmas are obviously recog- nized but there are so many others. For ex- ample, on Nov. 1-2, there’s All Saints Day and All Souls Day (Day of the Dead – Dia de los Muertos), when families hold vigil at the cemeteries of their departed loved ones. In Oaxaca one year I visited two cemeteries. In the shadowy moonlight we wound around candlelit tombstones to chat with family members who partied, sang, danced, or just quietly reflected on their deceased one. Catholic saints are revered throughout
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62 SANCLEMENTEJOURNAL
The miracle at Tepeyac, depicted above, helped the Spanish introduce Catholi- cism to the indigenous Aztecs and was pivotal in entrenching the religion.
Mexico. Children are often named for their birthday’s patron saint. Villages are named for saints and they generally have a big cel- ebration on that saint’s day every year. For a traditional birthday (mañanitas) party I’ve stood in a driveway before dawn with family members when a group of mari- achis blasted awake the honored señora. Tequila and beer followed and many revel- ers were comatose before noon. While honoring mother is widely ac-
cepted, the biggest birthday by far is a girl’s coming out, her 15th birthday (Quinceañera), a tradition so ingrained the cost can set papa back a small fortune. I’ve attended a few of those, from a laborer’s relatively simple backyard affair to one in a rented ballroom downtown Tijuana where hundreds of guests danced to a live band and enjoyed a sit-down catered din- ner. A Quinceañera is often more lavish than a wedding (boda). Mexican celebrations typically include
lots of people, many coming into towns and villages from rural areas, kids, food, market stalls, vendors, balloons, fireworks, solemn processions, the Church, and loud, constant music. If there’s two things Mex- icans love, it’s kids and loud music.
December 12 –
La Dia de Guadalupe The most cherished religious holiday
in Mexico is December 12, La Dia de Nues- tra Señora de Guadalupe when gala parties and processions honor the Señora who be- came Mexico’s iconic religious symbol. Guadalupe is the very symbol of Catholi- cism in Mexico and commemorates the miracle in December 1531 that is credited to have occurred on the hill at Tepeyac, now a northern suburb of Mexico City. There in the early days of Spanish rule
as the story goes, a poor Aztec Indian peas- ant named Juan Diego received an appari-
tion from a lady who identified herself as the Virgin of Guadalupe. She asked Juan Diego to go to the bishop and tell him about her, and also requested a church be built on the site. It is said the local bishop however requested proof. Juan Diego went back, and the sky
again turned brilliant and the lady reap- peared. She told him to take the nearby roses to the bishop. Behind him he found a rose bush growing. He cut them, placed them in his cloak, and returned to the bishop, saying he had brought proof, as roses were not known to be in that area. When he opened his cloak however, it fea- tured a miraculous image of the lady, now universally known as Our Lady of Guadalupe. That miracle at Tepeyac helped the
Spanish introduce Catholicism to the in- digenous Aztecs and was pivotal in en- trenching the religion. The fact that one of their own, a poor Indian, was the witness paved the way for converting the previ- ously recalcitrant Indians. While the likeness on the cloak has
been duplicated literally millions of times on every item imaginable, I’ve seen what the Church recognizes as the original cloak. It is prominently displayed high on a wall at the Basilica of Guadalupe at Te- peyac, above a moving walkway for the faithful to behold and to pay homage. It is one of the most visited Catholic shrines in the world. The December 12 event is recognized
throughout Latin America and, as Mexico’s most honored celebration, creates excite- ment in every city and town. Traditionally, young children are dressed up for the part. Little boys are attired like Juan Diego in loose fitting garments, a peon’s straw hat and a mustache (bigote) drawn by mama’s eyeliner. Little girls wear simple white dresses.
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