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hilltop in Northern Cyprus, I could see why its magical ruins are believed to have helped inspire Walt Disney's film "Sleeping Beauty". As I sat on a rock to
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recharge my batteries by St Hilarion Castle, I looked down on the fairytale surroundings below, including the labyrinth of rooms and tunnels which almost appear to have grown out of the rocks. A cat leisurely strolled past
my slightly out-of-breath group and settled down with us to enjoy the Mediterranean climate. Resting in the sunshine, it seemed iike a perfect day. Northern Cyprus, with its
unspoiled natural beauty, has much to attract Britons, whether you want to pull on a pair of sturdy boots to explore the coastlines, relax on the uncluttered beaches or get up close among ancient archaeological ruins. British pensioners,
especially, love the place. Many escape the miserable UK winters and enjoy the spending power of the Turkish iira. They sit outside cafes, browse souvenir shops which
LAMBERING through a castle which sweeps up high above a steep
sell local handicrafts such as lacework, rugs, pottery and jewellery, and read readily- available British newspapers. Direct Traveller, the tour
operator which arranged my visit, has made it easily accessible with flights from a dozen UK airports into- Larnaca, and then an easy transfer across the border between the Greek and Turkish sectors, where restrictions were finally eased when Cyprus joined the EU. Long winter holidays of 56
days cost iittle over £1,000, with half-board accommo dation. That is £20 a day, with somebody else doing the cooking and no heating bills to worry about.
CROSSROADS At the crossroads of three
continents, Cyprus is known for its naturai romance and charm. According to iegend, it was once given to Cleopatra by Julius Caesar as a token of his affection. The laidback Turkish side of
the isiand has few traces of mass tourism. Northern ■ Cyprus enjoys iong, hot Mediterranean summers, when temperatures reach a very pleasant 35C, while winters are mostly mild. Citrus fruits thrive and olive
trees blanket the mountains, surrounding villages, which in
many ways appear to have stood still in time over centuries. The unhurried pace is
• reflected in its nightlife, so think more of cosy bars and restaurants than the pounding club scene of the south. An obvious starting point in
the north for any visitor is Kyrenia, with its distinctive horseshoe-shaped harbour boasting colourful fishing boats and a lively yet relaxed atmosphere. You can enjoy an evening
drink outside one of the restaurants at the water's edge and take in the unhurried surroundings. My first stop was the Malpas
Hotel, nestled in hiils outside the village of Catalkoy and five miles east of Kyrenia. The hotel boasts two outdoor swimming pools, an indoor pool, steam rooms and even a casino. I also stayed at the elegant
Colony Hotel, centrally located’ in Kyrenia and boasting a pool on the roof of the building with great views of the town, the coastiine and the nearby Five Finger Mountains. Further afieid, a few miles
east of Kyrenia, stands the gothic abbey at Beliapais. The village is immortalised in the book Bitter Lemons of Cyprus by Lawrence Durreli, brother
of naturalist Gerald Durrell, which recounts his tales of moving to Cyprus in the 1950s. The building is one of the
monuments to the numerous civilisations which have been established on the island. The main part was built
between 1198-1205 by King Hugh III of France, with Italian frescoes at the entrance of the chapel dating to the 15th Century. Travellers can take their
time wandering through the narrow streets of Bellapais, with its boutiques and restaurants. In the main square, where locals stop and chat, stands what Durrell named "The Tree of Idleness". ENERGETIC
For a more energetic pace,
visitors can make the exhiiarating walk up to St Hilarion Castie. The views are stunning, but you really need a pairof sturdy, flat shoes to explore the hidden nooks and crannies - plus abottle of water. The castle is thought to
have been named after a holy man and hermit who lived there in the last years of his life in the 8th Century AD. Those who want to further
explore Northern Cyprus's varied history can visit Salamis, an important trading centre dating back to the 11th
Century BC. Tourists wander around the ruins of a huge Roman complex featuring baths and a theatre which would have held 15,000 spectators. The stamp of different
cultures over the centuries means that local food takes in a mix of influences. The traditional meze, made up of hot and cold appetisers including salads, meat and fish, is a particular attraction. Meals tend to be washed down with a Turkish coffee. For another authentic
experience, try a traditional Turkish-style massage. Mine was fairly vigorous and without any of the lotions and potions you might find in a British spa, but it left me feeling great. Getting around by car is also
straightforward for Brits, as motorists drive on the left- hand side of the road. Standard car hire costs little over £20 per day.
But while the natural beauty
of Northern Cyprus is undeniable,'its political past casts a shadow on the island. The scars of its recent
history, including barbed wire, abandoned buildings and the presence of troops, are still visible and not entirely in keeping with a holiday atmosphere.
Cut off from the Greek side
of the island since 1974, the north has been in political limbo for decades. Turkey grabbed it in response to a Greek-backed military coup aimed at union with Athens. But Turkish occupation of
the area has seen it shunned by the international community, limiting cultural and economic links with the outside world. In July, Turkish Cypriots
celebrated 35 years since the arrival of Turkish troops, while Greek Cypriots on the other side marked the "black anniversary" with wailing sirens.
GREEN LINE A "Green Line" divides the
two parts from Morphou through Nicosia to Famagusta, and the contrast between the . more well-heeled south with its trendy boutiques compared with the less-developed north is marked. But Britons who love the
place turn a blind eye to things like this. They delight in a sunny
climate virtually year-round and the lack of the over commercialisation evident on many stretches of Mediterranean coastline - and hope others wili not discover the charms of Northern Cyprus for years to come.
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