Phoenix from the flames A
Sarah Daly discovers the rich history of Amiens and how the city’s regeneration is making it an exciting place to be, now and in the future
s the only city in the heart of the Somme, Amiens is no stranger to the destruction
of war. As well as being close to the front line during World War I, it was bombed heavily by Allied forces in World War II and was occupied by both sides during the two conflicts. If, from this description,
you’re expecting to see the scars of suffering, however, nothing could be further from the truth. Instead, Amiens is a confident, creative and attractive city that celebrates its rich cultural history, remembers the wounds inflicted on both its own citizens and the thousands of soldiers who passed through the Somme battlefields, and still offers a thoroughly modern approach to 21st-century living.
FACTORY RESET When we visited the city, work was taking place to upgrade a former industrial area. Called La Tisserie, at the heart of the 12-hectare historic site is a huge former factory for the manufacture of velvet. Renowned since medieval
times for its high-quality cloth, Amiens became the centre of production for embossed and printed velvets. Cosserat, the largest remaining factory,
On the market Chroma brings alive the colourful history of Amiens cathedral
producing textiles until 2012, is the subject of the ambitious redevelopment bringing the area back into the heart of the community, while balancing the ecological and heritage needs of this complex site. Already a microbrewery, La
Filature, has moved into one of the former buildings and transformed it into a relaxed
restaurant in which to sample its beers. The garden outside was humming on a weekday term-time lunchtime, with the voices of children and families enjoying Wednesdays off school, colleagues grabbing a break from work and retirees lingering over lunch and a beer. Bleu de Cocagne, based in one of the old warehouses
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here, is safeguarding the site’s heritage of velvet-making. It’s passing on traditional skills, aided by the fortuitous discovery of 300 original pattern blocks, safeguarded by a former employee.
CATHEDRAL QUARTER A mile and a half away, in the heart of the city, is the world’s largest Gothic cathedral. Evidence suggests that it was once brightly decorated, and Chroma – an impressive light show we enjoyed under a bright full moon – really brings the cathedral (and its history) to life. Although the building
escaped damage during both world wars, the areas around did not. St-Leu, at the foot of the cathedral and close to the canalised River Somme, was one of the last to be fully renovated. Known as the ‘Little Venice of the north’, many of the simple medieval buildings that back onto the river have been restored, and the area is now a lively university quarter filled with waterside restaurants and impressive street art. We witnessed a very derelict vinegar factory being demolished to make way for 200 new homes in a move typical of the spirit of regeneration and renewal in
FIND MORE PROPERTIES ON
FRANCEPROPERTYSHOP.COM
€373,000, Ste-Anne, Amiens: With five bedrooms over three levels, this renovated townhouse has original features, courtyard garden, converted loſt and a cellar (Agence du Centre)
€125,350, Ailly-sur-Noye: This centrally located three-bedroom terraced house has its own carriage entrance; in need of renovation, it has a garden and loſt ripe for conversion (Leggett)
72 FRENCH PROPERTY NEWS: March/April 2025
€1,431,000, Amiens: Dating from 1860, this renovated mansion in the heart of Amiens has an internal courtyard, eight bedrooms, six bathrooms, a liſt and an indoor pool (Leggett)
€128,000, Halloy: In a country setting north of Amiens, this two- bedroom farmhouse was built in 1730; it would make an ideal holiday home, and has a garden and outbuildings (Leggett)
© SARAH DALY
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