HIDDEN FRANCE ❘ MORLAIX BAY
OLDER THAN THE PYRAMIDS
On a hilltop overlooking Morlaix Bay is a burial chamber dating from 5000 BC. The Cairn de Barnenez is around 75 metres long, 25 metres wide and six metres tall, an ancient Neolithic burial chamber that is open to visitors.
www.barnenez.fr
“AT ROSCOFF, TAKE TIME TO EXPLORE ITS COBBLED STREETS, QUIRKY MUSEUM, EXOTIC GARDEN AND PERHAPS TAKE A BOAT TRIP”
economy through oyster production, seaweed and algae industries and seawater spa treatments, including the Thalasso Spa at Roscoff. As for Morlaix’s iconic viaduct, it was built between 1861 and 1863, spanning 292 metres and rising 62 metres into the sky. The uppermost level carries the Paris-Brest train, but there is a walkway – the Promenade de Guichen – underneath which is open during the day for pedestrians who want a unique high-rise view over the town!
FURTHER AFIELD
From top: Cycling around the port at Morlaix; you can walk to the island of Callot at low tide; Callot from the air; the
tiny island of Callot is a delight to explore; the fountain and
church in Saint-Jean-du-Doigt are among the many sites of interest in the area
If you arrive at Roscoff, take time to explore its cobbled streets, quirky museum, exotic garden and perhaps take a boat trip to the nearby Île de Batz, or drive towards Morlaix and stop at Carantec, a seaside resort with fabulous coastal walks offering unparalleled views. As well as its shops, port and beaches, Carantec offers the chance to walk to the island, Île Callot, whose pathway is revealed at low tide. South of Morlaix Bay, you’ll fi nd the Arrée Mountains, a stunning landscape of moorland and heather adored by hikers and mountain bikers, with a real sense of endless skies. Finally, if you get the chance, drive east to Guerlesquin, a small market town with unique heritage which includes a tiny town-centre prison complete with turrets. FT
58 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Aug/Sep 2022
MORLAIX ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE BY BOAT Morlaix Bay is perfect for ferry trips from England, as the bay sits to the right of Roscoff, where a Brittany Ferries crossing takes you to Plymouth in 5½ hours (daytime) or overnight. You could also sail overnight from Cork to Roscoff if you prefer.
BY AIR
Brest-Bretagne Airport is an easy 40 minutes from Morlaix, offering regular fl ights from Birmingham, or Quimper– Bretagne Airport (1 hr 20 minutes from Morlaix) connects to London City Airport.
BY TRAIN Morlaix train station has daily connections to Paris, taking you to or from Paris-Montparnasse in 3½ hours with one-way tickets from €39.
WHERE TO STAY Hôtel de l’Europe is centrally located near the viaduct, offering en-suite rooms from €76 and buffet breakfast at €9.90. Also central is Morlaix’s youth hostel (auberge de jeunesse), open to all ages for just €34 a night, and throughout the region a fantastic range of chambres d’hôtes offer stays from €60 including breakfast. For discreet luxury, try the Grand Hôtel des Bains in Locquirec, a breathtaking seaside hotel and setting worthy of an Agatha Christie novel. Expect to pay around €200 a night for a double room, which includes access to their spa suite, complete with pool, steam room, sauna and add a massage treatment for true indulgence.
IMAGES ©SIMON BOURCIER, HERVÉ RONNÉ, THIBAULT PORIEL
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