CITY FOCUS ❘ LILLE
Clockwise from above: Waffles are among the local specialities; dining on the terrace in Grand’Place is a great way to while away an afternoon or evening, even in chillier seasons; the delectable Pâtisserie Méert is a must-visit for the sweet of tooth; enjoy a spot of shopping at the colourful Marché de Wazemmes
popular new addition is the Grand Scène, an indoor food court offering global street food with everything from tacos to falafel. But the trendiest place to be is anywhere with outdoor seating. This may not be the warmest part of France, but locals love to spend an evening en terrasse and weather permitting, you’ll fi nd plenty of places to sit back and relax with an aperitif.
Here the tipple of choice is often beer and northerners like it strong, with most brews ranging from a feisty six to nine per cent alcohol. The city has always been known for its traditional brasseurs (brewers), but these days microbreweries seem to be popping all over the place. Craft beer enthusiasts should check out La Capsule on the Rue des Trois- Mollettes to try one of their impressive 28 beers on tap. Before heading home, stop by L’Abbaye des Saveurs, a cave à bière and épicerie fi ne on Rue des Vieux Murs, where you’ll fi nd an extensive range of bottled artisan beers as well as other local delights, perfect as gifts for loved ones or for a treat to remind you of this wonderful city. FT
“LOCAL FAVOURITES INCLUDE A WELSH RAREBIT-STYLE OPEN HAM AND CHEESE SANDWICH COOKED IN CHEDDAR AND BEER”
estaminets (taverns) in Vieux Lille. Local favourites include a ‘Welsh’, a Welsh rarebit-style open ham and cheese sandwich cooked in cheddar and beer, usually served with frites (to be dipped in the cheesy beer sauce!); carbonade Flamande (beef stew cooked in beer); and just about anything made with Maroilles, a pungent local cheese. Try to save room for dessert, as there are some tempting treats to sample. Being this close to Belgium, it’s not surprising that waffl es are on the menu. However the Lillois prefer a more delicate variety of gauffre that are more akin to Dutch stroopwafels than the thick, doughy Belgian versions found in other parts of France. For the very best, head to the elegant Pâtisserie Méert on Rue Esquermoise. This local institution dates back to 1761 and their gauffre recipe remains a well-guarded secret. Another absolute must is Aux Merveilleux de Fred. Founded by local pastry chef Frédéric Vaucamps, this legendary Lillois pâtisserie is known for its cloud-like meringues topped with cream. The fl agship shop on Rue de la Monnaie can get very busy, but there are now three other locations across the city to visit.
ON TREND
Although Lille may be known for its stereotypically Flemish cuisine, its foodie scene has grown increasingly cosmopolitan in recent years. One
48 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Aug/Sep 2022 Lille LILLE ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Eurostar from London St Pancras to Lille takes 90 mins. By car, it’s just under an hour from the ferry port at Calais and slightly further from the Eurotunnel at Calais.
GETTING AROUND Central Lille is compact and easy to explore on foot, but you’ll need to take the Métro or hire a car if venturing out of town to the Piscine in Roubaix.
WHERE TO STAY Grand Hotel Bellevue Tel: (+33) 3 20 57 45 64
grandhotelbellevue.com Ideally situated in the heart of the city on the Place du Général de Gaulle with elegant and comfortable rooms. Doubles from €140.
WHERE TO EAT Estaminet Au Vieux de la
Vieille
Tel: (+33) 3 20 13 81 64
estaminet-au-vieux-
de-la-vieille-lille.fr
Tucked away in Vieux Lille, this
charming and cosy restaurant offers a good range Flemish specialities at reasonable prices.
WHERE TO VISIT Palais des Beaux Arts Tel: (+33) 3 20 06 78 00
pba.lille.fr Feast your eyes on the works of Van Dyck, Delacroix, Courbet, Van Gogh and Monet as well as Flemish grand master Reubens. Open Mondays from 2pm to 6pm and Wednesdays to Sundays 10am to 6pm. Tickets from €7.
TOURIST INFORMATION Tel: (+33) 3 26 77 45 00 Palais Rihour, Pl. Rihour, 59000 Lille
lilletourism.com
IMAGES © OTCL LILLE / MAXIME DUFOUR PHOTOGRAPHIES, PÂTISSERIE MÉERT / JEAN-PHILIPPE METSERS
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