cartagena
Best of the rest
The Rosario Islands A chain of islands strung off the coast of Cartagena, Los Rosarios has long served as the playground of Colombia’s rich and famous, decked out with private island homes and luxury yachts. Take a tour from the city harbor to hop between the many beaches, cocktail bars and snorkeling spots.
A Colombian musician busks on the street with his guitar
Left: Church of St. Peter Claver and bocagrande in Cartagena
where the cells that once held prisoners have been repurposed into shops selling artisan goods and crafts, or visit the plazas that once housed the largest slave markets in South America. At one time, around one million people were trafficked through Plaza de la Aduana (Customs Square), a short distance from the old city. Learn about Colombia’s colonial history here — right down to the statue of Christopher Columbus that stands in its center — to understand how Cartagena’s essence came to be a unique blend of Mestizo, Indigenous, African and Caribbean cultures.
FOOD + DRINK Cartagena’s proximity to the Caribbean hauls means that fish is the focal point of local cuisine. Try lobster plucked from the ocean, mixed with other fresh shellfish and
laden in a coconut broth (known locally as cazuela de mariscos) at Atahualpa. Or tuck into charcoal-charred octopus with a chimichurri kick (pulpo a la parrilla) at Tomillo Cevicheria & Mar. Decadent dishes drawn from the sea aren’t the only options on offer here — tuck into Colombian classics like generously stuffed arepas (stuffed cornmeal cakes) at Quero Arepa, or snack on tapas-style dishes and desserts at the scenic Caffé Lunático. Alternatively, for a truly authentic taste
of Cartagena’s cuisine, brave the labyrinth of farm-fresh fruit stands and hollering vendors inside Bazurto Market. Pick up your daily dose of tropical fruits — opt for Colombian classics like guanábana (soursop), guayaba (guava) or one of the many local breeds of passion fruit. Or simply sit down for a meal of steaming fish soup, which is very popular in the market.
Pirate Island A typical day on Pirate Island, part of the Rosario Islands, involves sipping a cocktail from a hollowed coconut, swaying in a hammock and looking out at the turquoise waters beyond. This tranquil retreat from the city offers travelers secluded access to the best of the Caribbean. Sit back and watch pelicans plunge into the ocean for fish or wade out into the water to snorkel with tropical fish.
Isla Barú Conveniently connected to the mainland by road, Isla Barú is mountainous and forested, an outpost of the Amazon’s lush interior. Its main attraction is its beach, lined by shacks selling shellfish and cocktails. Visit at night to swim amid the blue bioluminescence (phosphorescent plankton that mimic the star-filled sky) after a day wading in the turquoise waters of Playa Blanca.
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