ON THE TRAIL


Ningxia This market is staged on Ningxia


Road, close to the historic Dadaocheng district. Two rows of stalls are pressed close together to form a narrow aisle down the main drag. Make a beeline for Liu Yu Zai, the Michelin-decorated stall that’s perfected deep-fried taro balls. Try the version with a lava-like salted egg yolk and soft pork floss center and watch the cooks roll the spheres by hand while you wait in line. Ningxia is also famed for its oyster omelet — Yuan Huan Pien takes oysters from Tainan and combines them with an airy batter that's then charred on the grill.


Nanjichang Nanjichang (‘south airport’) traces its origins


back to the Japanese period (1895-1945). The military airstrip it once stood by is now defunct, but the market lives on, with a reputation for local vibes and low prices. For fearless foodies, this is the place to sample stinky tofu: spongy bean curd fermented for several months in a funky brine of milk, vegetables and meat. While most cooks deep-fry it (this tourist-friendly method of preparation tempers the tang), Smelly Boss serves it steamed and extra odorous. For something more familiar, Nanjichang turns out some of the best gua bao pork buns, aka Taiwanese hamburgers, in town.


Miaokou Located in Keelung City, around 30


minutes by bus from Taipei, this market is farther afield but worth the detour. Occupying the length of Rensan Road, its signature is the long string of yellow lanterns that hang overhead. This being northern Taiwan’s main port, Miaokou is all about seafood. The deep- fried soft-shell crab is a big hit, but the main event is ding bian cuo or ‘pot side paste’ — rice batter poured over the side of a hot wok then scraped off to create thick noodles, which are submerged in a fish-based soup.


FALL 2023 • 21


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