image: awl images
copenhagen
WHERE TO EAT
and mackerel to another level, this inventive restaurant pairs unexpected tastes for striking results.
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with a Michelin Green Star, Ark on Nørre Farimagsgade challenges perceptions of meat-free cuisine over a nine-course tasting menu.
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Nørrebro restaurant’s menu is based on oatmeal, transforming it into dal and risotto, turning your world upside down.
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across town to pick up their favorite pastries — as well as local neighborhood anchors. Each has their own specialities and flavors and it’s worth knowing which bake new batches all day and which run a ‘when it’s gone, it’s gone’ style of approach. In Østerbro, tiny corner bakery Juno
serves up renowned cardamom rolls from the oven all day, their distinctive taste the result of a key Danish import — along with cinnamon and allspice — that can be traced back to the Vikings. I leave on my bike the next morning, my tongue and nostrils tingling with the scent of the complex fruity-piney spice for many blocks. Copenhagen gives even a nervous cyclist
Above: Warpigs Brewpub in the Meatpacking District of Copenhagen
confidence to join the locals pedaling wide cycle lanes with purpose. It’s also the perfect way to tour the city, using bakeries as map pins for insight not only into the creativity
of laminated pastry but the characters of the various neighborhoods. On the up-and-coming south Holmen
islet, English Noma alumnus Richard Hart is redefining Danish tastes along with head pastry chef Talia Richard-Carvajal at the waterfront bakery Hart Bageri. Here, black sesame cookies regularly wow the crowds, and constant and surprising invention is the order of the day. Notes Richard-Carvajal, “Being foreigners, it wasn’t sentimental for us — we could play with the classics and just think, ‘Oh, that tastes good’. I'm sure at first we were offending people all the time, but it gave us a way to put our spin on things and pull in new influences.” In front of the bakery, bridges connect
the city and extensive modern development in this former dockyard. It appears a characteristically thoughtful part of the
FALL 2023 • 47
Grød Danish for porridge, this
Ark The first Nordic vegan restaurant
Selma Taking classic Danish herring
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