ON THE TRAIL


NIGHT MARKETS OF TAIPEI


Taipei's night markets are more than somewhere to grab a bite — they’re a cultural experience, says Emily Lush


T


here are two sides to the Taiwanese capital: Taipei by day, and Taipei after dark. Every evening when the clock


strikes 5pm, more than 30 food markets unfurl across the city, transforming the streets into open-air buffets where stalls dish out xiaochi — literally ‘small eats’ — until the early hours of the morning. Taipei’s first hawkers congregated


around temples and universities, offering low-cost meals to students and migrant workers. Over time, these markets have evolved into gathering places where locals come to socialize and shop. From humble beginnings, many xiaochi vendors have risen up through the epicurean ranks: 24 food stands now hold a prestigious Bib Gourmand from Michelin. Try these five markets for a taste of Taiwan.


Raohe The 18th-century Ciyou


Temple provides a spectacular backdrop for this market — especially after dark. Centrally located in Songshan, Raohe is easy to navigate thanks to its one-street- only layout. Hujiao bing (black pepper buns) are a favorite, with Fuzhou Shizu being the star stall. Baked in a tandoor-style oven, the pillowy dough filled with marinated pork is perfectly crisp every time. Locals also flock to Raohe for a bowl of pork bone soup, consisting of ribs submerged in an herbal broth. Snag a plastic seat at Chen Tung Pork Ribs, which has been operating for 30 years.


Shilin If you only have one evening in Taipei, spend


it here: Shilin is the mother of all night markets, with 500-plus vendors and the full suite of xiaochi. The legendary chain Hot-Star Large Fried Chicken was born at Shilin, thus a pilgrimage to the flagship branch for a giant crumbed cutlet is a must. An ice cream burrito filled with cilantro and peanut brittle, hand-shaved on demand from a giant slab, is another. Beyond the sprawling stalls, Shilin has an air-conditioned food court (perfect for summer), video arcades and karaoke bars to fully immerse you in Taipei’s nightlife.


20 • postcards


illustrations: jessica kendrew


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