images: get ty; alamy


copenhagen


From far left: Nyhavn harbor; people walking their bikes across Dronning Louises Bro (Queen Louise’s Bridge) in Nørrebro


LOCAL FLAVORS


curling it into cinnamon snails and folding the corners in to make square spandauer. As the oven gently bakes each one, scenting the air with cinnamon, we stop for coffee and bask in the glow of satisfaction. We don’t skimp on tasting the final


products, but even so, we’re still clutching large take-away boxes of fragrant warm pastry when I eventually leave. Bathed in warm, late afternoon sun, the arteries of Copenhagen flow around us with trilling bicycle bells and whirring wheels. In Nyhavn, outdoor bars are full of locals and tourists enjoying aperitifs, before heading out to eat in one of Europe’s most vibrant dining destinations. The New Nordic Cuisine movement


that burst into life in the mid-2000s, most notably with Noma, has given Copenhagen’s restaurant scene a relaxed confidence that


makes it hard to have a bad meal here. If you can’t get a reservation for Noma before it closes in 2024, you can always grab the ultimate patty at POPL, the restaurant’s burger joint instead. I settle on an outside table at brewpub Warpigs in the Kødbyen Meatpacking District to enjoy succulent barbecue and beakers of hoppy microbrew amid a lively Copenhagen crowd. Culinary ambition has upped the Danish


pastry landscape here, too, currently enjoying a third wave, moving it on from traditional baking to a noughties renaissance that put homegrown premium bakeries such as Ole & Steen on the map. Now, these tastes are being joined by local artisan bakers and numerous Noma alumni who have opened independent bakeries. In Copenhagen, bakeries are destination dining — with Copenhageners traveling


Sourdough Find superlative sourdough bread at bakeries such as Galst or buy a traditional breakfast morning bun — a sourdough roll, with piquant Comté cheese and butter.


Craft beer Copenhagen’s strong craft beer culture means microbreweries are all over the city, especially in the neighborhoods of Vesterbro, Nørrebro and the city center.


Fastelavnsboller (semla) This ganache-topped custard bun packs a sugary punch in February, when bakeries create innovative takes on it to celebrate Fastelavn, the Sunday before Lent.


FALL 2023 • 45


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