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KILIMANJARO
as -20C at night. “The temperature drops by around 6C for every 1,000 metres of altitude gain,” he adds.
Which route should I climb? There’s a network of seven official routes up Kilimanjaro, with some link-up combinations. “It’s difficult to pinpoint the best route for climbing Kilimanjaro as it depends on individual preferences and fitness levels,” Jon says. Routes vary in length, steepness, popularity
and scenic variety. Your tour operator can advise on which of their routes fit both your ability (for example, a more gradual climb) and expectations (the best views versus quieter paths). The Marangu route is the busiest. It’s the only route with huts and is easily accessible from Moshi with one of the shortest climbs. It can be done over five days, but the lack of time to acclimatise impacts its success rate and the descent retraces the ascent route, which limits views and causes two-way traffic. A longer choice is the Machame route, enabling
slower acclimatisation, while the even longer Lemosho is quieter and has the best views. Both have high success rates. The moderate, remote Rongai route is the only one to ascend from the north and offers good monkey-spotting opportunities. For experienced climbers, the Umbwe is the shortest and steepest.
How many days should I plan for my trip? Most teams summit and descend in around five to nine days. The climb is best done in ‘pole pole’ style, meaning ‘slowly’ in Swahili. “Create your own rhythm and go at a consistent pace from day one so that by the time the steepness increases, you can handle it,” Joshua says. Having more days in hand to climb maximises
your chances of summiting. “You’ll have plenty of time to acclimatise plus the opportunity to climb higher and sleep low,” he explains. The descent is usually split over two days. Additional activities in the area include visiting
caves and waterfalls in the national park, touring banana and coffee plantations, or going on a safari.
What equipment do I need? A good operator should provide you with a kit list and hire options. Since the routes pass through five climate zones, you’ll start in the humid rainforest and summit in a windy arctic landscape. Bring plenty of layers so you can stay warm and dry at each stage. Start with breathable base layers and build warmth with a fleece and insulated jacket. Pack waterproofs, too, and thermal layers for night-time.
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Other essentials include comfy shoes, a cap for protection, sunscreen and a warm hat and gloves. Key equipment includes trekking poles, a head
torch and an insulated sleeping bag. Also take a rucksack with at least a 30-litre capacity and an in- built hydration system. Pack luxury items to make your climb as comfortable as possible (snacks, eye mask, inflatable pillow, etc.)
What are the main risks? Altitude sickness (AMS) is the main risk and is the leading cause of death on the mountain. At altitudes above 2,500 metres, the oxygen thins out, resulting in symptoms from headaches, dehydration, nausea and poor appetite to more serious and potentially fatal pulmonary or cerebral oedemas. AMS can be mitigated by acclimatising properly,
taking it slow, keeping hydrated and climbing with accredited, first-aid-trained guides who can spot symptoms developing and respond promptly with bottled oxygen, as well as descend with the casualty if necessary. Responsible operators will also perform daily heart rate and pulse oximeter checks. The climb can also be tough psychologically,
especially since high altitude impairs sleep quality. To keep spirits up, guides often teach the song Jambo Bwana, which means ‘hello, sir’ in Swahili. “It’s a motivational theme tune,” Joshua says.
What ethical considerations should I be aware of? A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kilimanjaro is sacred to the local Chagga people, revered as a source of life and fertility. Respect the local people and environment. Check
the sustainability credentials of tour operators. Follow the ‘leave no trace’ principle: don’t litter, use the camp toilets where possible and keep to marked paths. Single-use plastic is banned in the national park, so pack a reusable bottle or hydration system. Weigh-ins ensure that porters are not overloaded and rubbish is also weighed to deter littering. Climate change is causing Kilimanjaro’s
summit glacier to vanish. Deforestation has exacerbated its effects, leading to warm, dry air blowing up the slopes. In an effort to offset your carbon travel footprint, consider donating to a local tree-planting organisation to help cool the air through the evaporation processes and shade provided by forests. At the summit, don’t touch the remaining ice
cliffs. “Poor guides allow clients to climb the delicate, fragile glacier and it causes them to collapse,” Joshua says.
Quick facts
Kilimanjaro consists of three volcanic cones: Kibo (the summit cone), Mawenzi and Shira. While the latter two are extinct, Kibo is dormant and could erupt again.
The last major eruption is estimated to have occurred 360,000 years ago, forming the summit caldera on Kibo.
Scientists forecast that Kilimanjaro’s tropical summit glacier could disappear by 2030.
The mountain attracts many fundraisers and quirky record- breakers. One person recently ascended with a fridge on their back.
Kilimanjaro’s proximity to the Equator means that from the summit you can see both the North Star and the Southern Cross in the same sky.
Clockwise from top: Group of Maasai warriors in southern Kenya; a long walk up Mount Kilimanjaro on the Whiskey route; summit of Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest point Previous pages: Zebra herd grazing beneath Kilimanjaro
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