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IMAGES: SÉPAQ/MATHIEU DUPUIS; ALEX FRADKIN


CANADA


Bonfire at Fogo Island Inn Left: Balcony lookout,


Chic-Chocs Mountain Lodge


WHERE TO STAY


ULTIMATE WILDERNESS LODGES These remote cabins are spectacular bases to explore some of Canada’s wildest backcountry


HAIDA HOUSE, BRITISH COLUMBIA Set on the Tlell River, in the ancient forest that defines Western Canada’s remote Haida Gwaii islands, the locally owned Haida House specialises in indigenous adventures. Stay at the central lodge or in one of 12 two-bed ocean-front cabins and let Haida cultural interpreters lead by foot, kayak, Zodiac or 4x4 through the ‘Galápagos of the North’ where carved totem poles line pristine shores. Six of the archipelago’s 10 native land mammal subspecies are found nowhere else on Earth, including North America’s largest black bear. Twenty species of whales and dolphins have been recorded in its waters and over 1.5 million seabirds nest along the coast. From C$955 (£570) B&B, for three nights’ minimum stay. haidatourism.ca


CHIC-CHOCS MOUNTAIN LODGE, QUEBEC Stay in a remote corner of the Gaspésie, where moose outnumber people. Set some 610 metres above the Gulf of St Lawrence, this 18-room lodge offers scenery on an epic scale. In winter, the Chic-Chocs Mountains are terrain for serious skiers, little-known on the mainstream circuit. Pronounced shick-shock (‘impassable’) in the local Mi’kmaq language, the densely forested slopes surrounding the lodge are a wonderland for hikers, with lakes to kayak in and an on-site sauna and hot tub to soothe aching muscles. After a convivial dinner at communal tables in the mountain-view dining room, use the lodge’s telescope to explore the night sky. From C$270 (£160) for two nights’ minimum stay. sepaq.com


FOGO ISLAND INN, NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, this architectural statement piece is set on an island off an island — Newfoundland — cantilevered above a rocky outcrop. Designed by Newfoundland-born, Norway-based architect, Todd Saunders, its 29 guestrooms come with floor-to- ceiling windows, while food is hyper-local, saunas wood- fired and hot tubs set on the rooftop. Built to support the local community, the inn’s operating surpluses go back into island businesses including heritage boat building programmes. Explore hundreds of miles of trails winding along jagged cliffs where caribou, puffins and pods of whales can be spotted. From C$2,875 (£1,715) per night all-inclusive, incorporating excursions but not alcohol. fogoislandinn.ca


SKY HIGH WILDERNESS LODGE, YUKON The Yukon is vast terrain for wilderness exploration, and this lake-lapped lodge surrounded by the peaks of Canada’s wild northwesterly territory is a prime place for adventure. Explore on horseback or by kayak in summer, while husky-sleds are the preferred mode of transport in winter; leave-no-trace camping expeditions take place year-round, leading guests from their off-grid wooden cabins into frontier country to discover Gold Rush history and aurora- lit skies. The lodge’s well-socialised huskies are a key focus, with sled teams rotated on multi-day trips, and canine care paramount. Tours offer the chance to learn mushing skills. From C$125 (£75) per night, self-catering; two-night minimum stay. skyhighwilderness.com SB


JUNE 2023 97


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