IMAGE: GETTY
SILK ROAD
GETTING THERE & AROUND The only direct flights from the UK to Central Asia depart from Heathrow. Uzbekistan Airways connects to Tashkent twice a week (7h) and Air Astana flies to Aktau in Kazakhstan twice a week (6h). Both airlines offer onward connections within the region to all the national capitals and a selection of smaller cities. Lufthansa flies from the UK to both Almaty and Astana in Kazakhstan via Frankfurt (four weekly, 6-7.5h). Alternatively, fly Turkish Airlines from Manchester or London to Istanbul to connect onwards to 14 airports within the region.
airastana.com
uzairways.com
turkishairlines.com Public bus and minibus networks run
within every major city, while Tashkent and Almaty both have metro systems. Between cities, set-route minibuses or shared taxis cover nearly all cities and towns. Across Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, taking a train is usually the best option, where they exist, although internal flights across Kazakhstan can save considerable time. In Uzbekistan, high-speed rail
A local on his way to pray at the Kalon Mosque in Bukhara
How to travel: a practical guide
What visas will I need for Central Asia? Visa policies have loosened considerably over the last decade, with travellers on UK passports currently allowed visa-free entry to Kazakhstan (30-day stay), Uzbekistan (30 days) and Kyrgyzstan (60 days). Longer stays will still require a visa, which must be issued at an embassy or through each country’s e-visa platform. You still need a visa to enter Tajikistan, which can be applied for online before arrival (avoid the on-arrival service, which is a frustrating, time-consuming process).
evisa.tj
Am I likely to need any travel permits? Trips to some remote border regions of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan do require special permits. If your itinerary includes the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan, for example, you’ll need a permit from the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, and it’s best to apply for it with your initial country visa application to save time. Applying for permits can involve Soviet-style bureaucracy; if travelling independently, it’s worth paying a local tour company to do it on your behalf. Fees are usually £25 to £40 per permit.
152
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
How should I manage money while travelling? Credit cards are widely accepted in Central Asia’s cities but rarely outside of them, and even in cities you’ll still need cash for small purchases. ATMs are widespread in the big cities, but they can unexpectedly run out of cash — particularly on weekends — so it’s worth also carrying some foreign currency. British pounds and Euros can reliably be changed in cities, but in towns and rural areas US dollars are the easiest to exchange.
What languages are spoken across the Central Asian Silk Road? Russia is the common language in this region. Tourism businesses in popular destinations will usually have English-speaking staff; it’s harder to find English speakers in rural areas.
How should I dress while travelling here? Locals across the region typically dress more conservatively than in the West. While visitors aren’t usually expected to adhere to local norms, you may be the target of unwanted attention if you don’t cover your shoulders and knees, especially in rural areas; the capital cities across Central Asia tend to be more liberal.
connects Tashkent to both Samarkand and Bukhara and is set to be extended to Khiva by 2024. Prices vary by route, but expect to pay around £12 for the 3.5h trip from Tashkent to Bukhara; some longer services (such as Astana to Almaty: 16h) have cabins. Elsewhere in both countries, a wider network of Soviet-era services still runs. Book tickets at least three or four days in advance, as they often sell out.
railway.uz/en bilet.railways.kz
WHEN TO GO April to May are ideal months for cultural tourism across the region, with spring rains finished and daytime temperatures pleasant in the lower elevations of Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan (highs 24-31C), though mountainous areas will still be cold. July and August are ideal for hiking and horseback riding, but Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and even Bishkek will be sweltering, with temperatures around 35C. October and November see heavy rains and the first snows. Winter is popular for ski holidays near Almaty, Bishkek, Karakol and Tashkent, but the region’s cities are choked by smog at this time of year — stay in the mountain resorts wherever possible.
MORE INFO
caravanistan.com
indyguide.com Lonely Planet Central Asia. RRP: £19.99.
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184 |
Page 185 |
Page 186 |
Page 187 |
Page 188 |
Page 189 |
Page 190 |
Page 191 |
Page 192 |
Page 193 |
Page 194 |
Page 195 |
Page 196 |
Page 197 |
Page 198 |
Page 199 |
Page 200 |
Page 201 |
Page 202 |
Page 203 |
Page 204
