IMAGES: ALAMY; RIVER ANDERSON


SMART TRAVELLER


S TAY AT HOME FALMOUTH


Explore Cornwall’s maritime boomtown this summer, then tackle a chunk of the South West Coast Path, celebrating its 50th anniversary


Why go Visit Falmouth and you’ll experience a traditional Cornish seaside town embracing its creative side. A pageant of history has sailed through its deep-water harbour — some of it illicit, with ties to piracy in the 18th century. Locals remain tethered to the tides, with a family-run fishery supplying restaurants, and paddleboarders gliding down the estuary. Falmouth is also home to a creative


community, buoyed by its two universities — one among the UK’s best for the arts. Indie music, theatre and comedy fill small venues, while a sea shanty and oyster festivals are firm fixtures on locals’ calendars. visitfalmouth.com falmouthseashanty.co.uk falmouthoysterfestival.co.uk


What to do Running through Falmouth, the South West Coast Path turns 50 this year. Start at 16th-century Pendennis Castle and cross Gyllyngvase and Swanpool Beaches, working your way across quiet coves, mossy forest and sweeping valleys to Helford Passage. Look out for common and bottlenose dolphins, as well as harbour porpoises, often spotted here along with the occasional common seal or minke whale. To join the festivities, buy a celebratory ‘passport’ online and get it stamped along the way. southwestcoastpath.org.uk english-heritage.org.uk


Where to eat Drooling at the view is part of the package at the waterfront Star & Garter, but don’t let it distract from the food. The gastropub- cum-chop house serves up local produce cooked over wood and flame — think grilled pollock in saffron broth with smoked mash and parmesan-covered greens. starandgarterfalmouth.co.uk


Don’t miss A few miles south west of Falmouth lies Trebah, a 26-acre subtropical valley with exotic gardens. Highlights include a giant gunnera patch, rhododendron and bamboo groves, all tucked beneath a lofty canopy of jungle-like tree ferns and hardy palms. A spring-fed stream cascades down to a private beach on the Helford River, where Second World War remains offer a stark reminder of Cornwall’s role in the 1944 D-Day landings. trebahgarden.co.uk


Where to stay Situated in a quiet, leafy part of town is Merchants Manor, a former shipping merchant’s home turned handsome, adults- only boutique hotel. Rooms are bright, chic and hung with local art; garden cabins come with a private whirlpool bath. There’s also a three AA rosette restaurant. From £240 per night B&B. merchantsmanor.com NORA WALLAYA


WE LIKE The Seaweed Institute marries community, nature and food in an endeavour solely focused on — you guessed it — seaweed. It connects people with Falmouth’s oceanic surroundings through day-long workshops spent foraging, cooking and craft-making using various types of the marine algae, interspersed with discussions on its place in Cornish culture. theseaweedinstitute.com


From top: Gyllyngvase beach in Falmouth; a seaweed walk and cooking experience at the Seaweed Institute


JUNE 2023 31


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