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CONTRIBUTORS


Nora Wallaya There’s full Cornish immersion to be had in Falmouth, complemented by some of the coastal county’s most exciting players in art, music and gastronomy. And with the South West Coast Path turning 50 this year, there’s no better time to visit. FALMOUTH P.31


Sarah Gillespie For this trip to Bosnia & Herzegovina, I rafted down the River Neretva, alternating moments of stillness with furious rapids. It’s a fitting metaphor for the country, which is both idyllic and overwhelming — often at the same time. BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA P.44


Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Editor: Pat Riddell Managing Editor: Amelia Duggan Deputy Editor: Amanda Canning Senior Editor: Sarah Barrell Commissioning Editors: Lorna Parkes, Georgia Stephens Assistant Editor: Angela Locatelli Executive Editor: Glen Mutel Associate Editor: Nicola Trup Content Strategist: Berkok Yüksel Deputy Digital Editor: Karlina Valeiko Art Director: Becky Redman Art Editors: Lauren Atkinson-Smith (maternity leave), Lauren Gamp Senior Designers: Kelly McKenna, Dean Reynolds Designer: Rosie Klein Junior Designer: Natalie Cornelius Picture Editor: Olly Puglisi Branded Content Manager: Flora Neighbour Deputy Branded Content Manager: Jack Clayton Project Editors: Jo Fletcher-Cross, Zane Henry, Megan Hughes, Farida Zeynalova Assistant Project Editor: Sacha Scoging Head of Sub Editors: Olivia McLearon Senior Sub Editor: Hannah Doherty Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Ben Murray, Victoria Smith Operations Manager: Seamus McDermott Operations Assistant: Tabitha Grainge Digital Marketing Manager: Tilly Tasker


Digital Marketing Assistant: Mélissa Otshudy Editorial Assistant: Matthew Figg Intern: Charlotte Davis Head of Events: Sabera Sattar Events Manager: Angela Calvieri Production Manager: Daniel Gregory Production Controllers: Christopher Hazeldine, Joe Mendonca


Commercial Director: Matthew Midworth Head of Sales: Phil Castle Head of Campaigns: William Allen Campaigns Team: Jamie Barnish, James Bendien, Bob Jalaf, Kevin Killen, Mark Salmon, Oscar Williams Head of National Geographic Traveller — The Collection: Danny Pegg


Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens Managing Director: Matthew Jackson Sales Director: Alex Vignali Head of Commercial Strategy: Chris Debbinney-Wright APL Business Development Team: Adam Fox, Cynthia Lawrence Office Manager: Hayley Rabin Head of Finance: Ryan McShaw Credit Manager: Craig Chappell Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover Billings Manager: Ramona McShaw


Oliver Smith I’d always wanted to visit Musandam, the ‘Norwegian fjords’ of Arabia. The comparison is accurate, with vast mountains and deep waters. The difference is, I could spend all day swimming in the balmy waters of Oman without getting hypothermia. OMAN P.100


National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited, Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL nationalgeographic.com/travel Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. editorial@natgeotraveller.co.uk Photography T: 020 7253 9906. photography@natgeotraveller.co.uk Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. sales@natgeotraveller.co.uk Subscriptions T: 01858 438787. natgeotraveller@subscription.co.uk


National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2023 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers.


National Geographic Partners


Amelia Duggan Venturing to four incredible nature hotspots, I used rafts, quad bikes, ferries and a hire car to go further and deeper off-the-beaten track. I discovered a country that lives up to its reputation as a welcoming haven for all creatures, great and small. COSTA RICA P.112


Editor-in-Chief, NG Media: Nathan Lump General Manager, NG Media: David Miller


International Editions


Editorial Director: Amy Kolczak Deputy Editorial Director: Darren Smith Editor: Leigh Mitnick Translation Manager: Beata Nas


Lauren Ho So much surprised me in Oslo: its sustainable approach to urban planning; its easy access to nature; and not least the fact it has as much design kudos and inventive eateries as its more well-known neighbours, like Copenhagen or Stockholm. OSLO P.166


Editors: CHINA Sophie Huang; GERMANY Werner Siefer; GREECE Kyriakos Emmanouilidis; INDIA Lakshmi Sankaran; ITALY Marco Cattaneo; LATIN AMERICA Roberto Moran; NETHERLANDS Robbert Vermue; POLAND Agnieszka Franus; RUSSIA Ivan Vasin; SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon Lim; SPAIN Josan Ruiz; TURKEY Zeynep Sipahi


Copyright © 2023 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National Geographic Traveller and the Yellow Border Design are registered trademarks of National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.


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National Geographic Partners returns 27% of its proceeds to the nonprofit National Geographic Society to fund work in the areas of science, exploration, conservation and education.


International Publishing


Senior Vice President: Yulia P. Boyle Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr Senior Manager: Rossana Stella


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