IMAGES: ROAM CREATIVE & INDIGENOUS TOURISM ALBERTA
CANADA
The animal comes from the adjoining Visions, Hopes
and Dreams at Métis Crossing Wildlife Park, a partnership between rancher Len Hrehorets and Métis landowners to reintroduce 5,000 Plains, White and Wood Bison back to these traditional lands. “The last time bison or ‘bufloo’ roamed wild here was 1865,” says Lilyrose. “Every spring and fall would be marked with a hunt and a major Métis gathering, but then we stopped being allowed to hunt and the land changed from prairie to bush. Seeing the buffalo back is an important ancestral connection for my people.” Lilyrose passes me to guide Weida Johns, and we bundle
into her dusty 4x4 to tour the park before sunset. She heaves open a gate and goes over to a bison herd. “Their hair is soft as cotton balls,” she says, “and they don’t moo, they grunt like pigs.” We roll down our windows and listen to a milky-coloured mother and calf snuffle at each other. “We have all shades of white here — much like us Métis!” says Weida laughing as she bounces the car towards the paddock of the larger Wood bison. A gaggle of North America’s largest mammal nibble at the grass, their brown backs rising towards the hulking mass of fat between their shoulders. “Their strong necks allow them to ‘dig’ through the snow for food in winter,” explains Weida, as indignant huffs escape from their woolly mouths.
Plant medicine After a five-hour drive west, I meet Cree knowledge-keeper Matricia Bauer outside Jasper Museum. The lights are off — a forest fire has cut the electricity to town and people are milling around the one hotel, ladling out cups of coffee. “We’ve made things convenient but complicated: if the supermarket is closed, people don’t know how to feed themselves,” says Matricia, her hair flattened by an olive-green fedora. “I didn’t buy one thing this year. I hunted elk, grew veg and gathered herbs.
There’s a sovereignty in that, to be able to provide food and medicine for your family.” Matricia is a drummer, singer, artist and foraging expert
who mentors young women in the community to keep knowledge-transfer alive, and offers fireside chats and plant walks to visitors. “I’ve always been a plant person,” she enthuses, as we stroll up a hill behind the museum. “This is grassland, all plants grow here,” she says as she crouches to brush her fingers over some broad leaves. “This is ‘white man’s foot’ or plantain. Many consider it a weed, but it’s full of seeds for stews and baking and the leaves are edible.” She walks a few paces and crouches again, pointing
out snowberries, which make a good antiseptic eye wash; clover, which is great for colds; and kinnikinnick, which acts as a kidney medicine. “In indigenous culture we align mind, body and spirit — it’s a different way of healing,” she explains. “Sadly, its value has been diminished by colonialism and racism. The knowledge has always been there, it’s just not been respected the way it should be.” We wander up the incline to where the meadow meets
the vast forest of Jasper National Park. “Welcome to the ‘wood-wide web’,” says Matricia, smiling. “The trees talk to each other, and we talk with the trees about our problems.” Looking up at their swaying tops, I have an inkling of
what she feels for these bark-clad friends and see how important knowledge-keepers like Matricia and Lilyrose are in revitalising respect for the ancient ways. Thanks to their quiet wisdom, there’s a chance Métis culture will stand tall and proud as these trees for a long time to come. HOW TO DO IT: Rooms at Métis Crossing start from C$150 (£90) per night B&B, while their indigenous experiences start from C$32 (£20).
metiscrossing.com. Matricia Bauer’s Wapakwanis Plant Walk costs C$45 (£27) per person; advance booking essential.
warriorwomen.ca MORE INFO:
travelalberta.com
JUNE 2023 91
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