IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK; ANNAPURNA MELLOR FOR INTREPID TRAVEL
Local wineries TOP THREE
MARIJANOVIĆ Josip Marijanović grows two Bosnian grape varieties (Žilavka and Blatina) at this family vineyard in tranquil Služanj. The vineyard is known for its 33 Barrique red — an equal-parts combination of Blatina, Syrah and Cabernet. Try it on one of the tours.
marijanovic.ba
CARSKA VINA Around a million Catholic pilgrims descend on the town of Međugorje every year in the hope of sighting the Virgin Mary — and to drink fine wines at Carska Vina. Owner Andrija Vasilj recently opened the nearby Cesarica wine hotel. carska-
vina.com
hotel-cesarica.com
ANDRIJA Andrija winery has been in operation since 1903, which has given the team plenty of time to develop a comprehensive visitor experience. Tours and tastings feature up to five wines, along with Herzegovinian charcuterie and desserts; there’s also a souvenir shop, plus rooms in which to sleep it all off.
podrumiandrija.com
DAY ONE OLYMPIC HERITAGE & OLD TOWN
Morning Wake early in the capital Sarajevo to catch the cable-car to Trebević mountain. Where Bosnian Serb forces once advanced during the Siege of Sarajevo, you’ll now find huddles of pines muffling the noise of the city. From here, you’ll see the 18th-century Yellow Fortress, which fires a cannon at sunset throughout Ramadan, and the oval of the former Olympic Stadium; the 1984 Winter Olympics are a source of considerable local pride. Join families on a stroll along the disused bobsleigh track before taking the cable-car back down. Head to Munchies Sarajevo bar in the northern neighbourhood of Višnjik for seasonal, fusion street food such as red trout sushi tart and fried veal sandwiches.
instagram.com/munchies_sarajevo
Afternoon Forty years of Austro-Hungarian rule left its fingerprints all over Sarajevo, not least with the grand theatre on Susan Sontag Square — the writer staged a production of Waiting for Godot here in 1993 that drew such attention, many believe it helped end the war. From here, it’s a short stroll to the Markale food market. Here, you’ll find stacks of smoked beef and tangy Livno cheese, a Bosnian delicacy. Continue to the Catholic Sacred Heart Cathedral and its aluminium statue of John Paul II, locally known as the ‘shiny Pope’, then detour south to the City Square, site of a giant chess board. Continue to Latin Bridge, where student Gavrilo Princip assassinated Austria’s Archduke Franz Ferdinand, setting the First World War in motion.
Evening Sarajevans say that as you step over the ‘Sarajevo Meeting of Cultures’ mark on Ferhadija street, you leave Vienna and enter Istanbul. The first indication is the bezistan (covered market) and mosque. Head to Kazandžiluk, where Sarajevo’s coppersmiths have plied their trade since the 16th century. You’ll find more fine copperwork at Inat Kuća, whose name (‘spite house’) originates from a row between its owner and city authorities, who planned to build City Hall on the site. The restaurant’s owner eventually agreed to sell the land, on the condition that the entire house was relocated to the other side of the river. The signature dish is Bosanski Lonac, a herb-infused hotpot cooked in a wood fire.
facebook.com/inatkucaspitehouse
From left: View across Sarajevo; people outside a cafe on cobbled Kovači Street near the centre
JUNE 2023 45
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164 |
Page 165 |
Page 166 |
Page 167 |
Page 168 |
Page 169 |
Page 170 |
Page 171 |
Page 172 |
Page 173 |
Page 174 |
Page 175 |
Page 176 |
Page 177 |
Page 178 |
Page 179 |
Page 180 |
Page 181 |
Page 182 |
Page 183 |
Page 184 |
Page 185 |
Page 186 |
Page 187 |
Page 188 |
Page 189 |
Page 190 |
Page 191 |
Page 192 |
Page 193 |
Page 194 |
Page 195 |
Page 196 |
Page 197 |
Page 198 |
Page 199 |
Page 200 |
Page 201 |
Page 202 |
Page 203 |
Page 204
