CANADA
In August 2020, Walker was visiting the bison herd when
he noticed a boulder protruding from a patch of vegetation the animals had worn away. Seeing a groove cut across the top of it and, brushing away the dirt, he spotted more cuts and realised what he was seeing was a petroglyph. The boulder turned out to be a ‘ribstone’, so-called because its engraved motifs represent bison ribs. Three more petroglyphs were later unearthed, as well as the stone knife used to carve them. What the bison did when they uncovered those
petroglyphs was to complete the story of Wanuskewin. “We’d always lamented that, here in the park, we’ve got [archeological sites like] buffalo jumps, teepee rings and North America’s most northerly medicine wheel, but we didn’t have any rock art,” explains Walker. Wanuskewin is on the tentative list for UNESCO World
Heritage designation. The discovery of the petroglyphs, Walker believes, has boosted its chances. He tells me: “The stones complete everything you’d expect to find on the Northern Plains, but you don’t usually find those things within walking distance of each other.” Dressed in a white Stetson, blue jeans and cowboy boots,
Walker retains the appearance of a young ranch hand but, after 40 years of arguing for this place, I sense he’s content to rest a little. “I’ve told this story many times before,” he says. Now, the bison have picked up Wanuskewin’s epic story and it’s time to let them tell it once again. HOW TO DO IT: Air Canada flies from Heathrow to Saskatoon (connecting in Toronto). Around 20 minutes south of Saskatoon, Dakota Dunes Resort is located on traditional Whitecap Dakota unceded territory with rooms from C$167 (£100) per night, room only.
aircanada.com
dakotadunesresort.com
tourismsaskatchewan.com
Q&A
INDIGENOUS PLANT MEDICINE
Rae-Leigh Rosette, 27, is part of the Stswecem’c Xgat’tem First Nation in the Chilcotin Ranges of British Columbia
Why are plants so important to First Nation communities? “Plants are a huge part of our culture because they’re our medicine and food and they’re integral to our ceremonies. We take care of Mother Earth, just as she takes care of us — honouring plants helps us to stay close to her. To keep the knowledge alive, young people in my community are invited to attend a four-day camp called ‘Gathering Our Voices’ to learn all about traditional medicines and histories.”
What plants are sacred? “Without a doubt, sage. We grow up on the smell. We smudge it to protect our homes and even our glasses to help us see better! But also, sweetgrass, juniper and tobacco.”
Are there any rituals before foraging? “Before taking anything, we must give something in return. We sprinkle tobacco to honour the ancestors and to thank them for letting us harvest. Ideally, you should use your left hand because it’s closer to your heart.”
What are your top foraging tips? “Us women like to make juice from soapberries to ease our period pains — we call it xúxum. And look out for rosehips. We call it the ‘itchy bum berry’ cause you’ll know about it if you eat the seeds. They have far more vitamin C than oranges, so we harvest them at the end of September and make a tea that we store to see us through winter.”
indigenousbc.com ET
JUNE 2023 71
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