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PAID CONTENT FOR TRAVEL SOUTH USA
FOR THE OYSTERS North Carolina
Before the pandemic, coastal North Carolina embraced a new ambition, which has become for oyster-lovers what Napa Valley is to wine-lovers. In 2020, the North Carolina Oyster Trail launched with an online map of major sites for spotting, purchasing, eating and celebrating oysters. What’s made this possible is the proliferation of oyster farming in this stretch of the Eastern Seaboard. Unlike the wild kind, farmed oysters don’t
spawn and grow according to season — they mature year-round to a uniform size that looks tantalising by the half-shell on a bed of ice. Small-scale growers nurture them from minuscule spat, and ‘plant’ them in mesh beds that bob on the water. And together they’ve put the state back at the shucking- edge of the oyster business. “Our first season, we worked with two oyster farmers,” says Sue Hill of Down East Mariculture, a hatchery providing farmers along the coast with oyster seedlings, or ‘spat’. “Five seasons later, we now work with 64.” Operations like Hill’s are the heart and soul of the Oyster Trail, offering the sort of
experiences that make a holiday. At Slash Creek Oysters up the coast on Pamlico Sound, Katherine McGlade and Spurgeon Stowe take visitors round their farm on a boat called Half Shell to watch tidal seawater wash through blooming molluscs. And at Oysters Carolina on the shellfish sanctuary of Harkers Island, local legend Ryan Bethea conducts tasting odysseys around the salty Back Sound by kayak. Blue Water Grill, a casual, woody affair on
Roanoke Island with fishing nets hanging from the rafters, has always managed to elevate the oyster, much to the delight of longtime customers. The restaurant is celebrated for its October oyster roasts and bloody Mary pairings. Now, with the mariculture boom, owner Scott Shields no longer has to dispel the notion that oysters shouldn’t be eaten in a month without an ‘r’. Oyster farms override that old prohibition, which is linked to regulations for the wild oyster harvest. For those seduced by a fleshy oyster
doused with jalapeno remoulade, there’s no better setting for slurping than a family business whose owners fish to live and live to fish. As for the tropical climate, 400-year history and inconceivable quiet… they’re like the spicy dash of Tabasco on top. EH
From above: Local fisherfolk in North Carolina have been rebuilding the oyster industry; Route 66 sign in Missouri; LuLu’s in Gulf Shores is home to some of Alabama’s most popular dishes
For those seduced by a fleshy oyster doused with jalapeno remoulade, there’s no better setting for slurping than a family business
IMAGES: JEYHAUN ALLENBAUGH; MISSOURI DIVISION OF TOURISM; CHRIS GRANGER
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