mountains
DESTINATIONS RWANDA | AFRICA
Rwanda has made huge strides in conservation through wildlife tourism. Cathy Toogood meets the majestic mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park and beyond
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heltering behind a tree around an eighth of his width, with huge arms folded across his chest and his head bowed, Kigoma looks
as unimpressed by the rain as I am. The 24-year-old silverback mountain gorilla also seems unfazed by a group of humans treading carefully around him, while we are all giddy with excitement at our first sighting for the day. A few steps around the corner we spot another silverback sitting with the fluffy ball of an infant curled up next to him and, further on, there’s a mother tucked away cradling her infant, keeping it warm and dry while she breastfeeds. As I try to capture the scene with my camera, our eyes lock and she yawns. I’m on a gorilla trek in the Volcanoes National
Park, Rwanda, and we’ve just found the Kwisanga family. This newly formed group was named at Kwita Izina 2022, an annual ceremony where baby gorillas are officially named and Rwanda’s commitment to sustainable and responsible tourism is celebrated.
Conservation of mountain gorillas is a Rwandan success story, with a recent census showing that the population had grown by 26% over six years. While wet weather may not seem like ideal
trekking conditions, our guide Sebanani Jean reassures us that it will allow us to observe the family in more detail while they are sheltering and less inclined to move.
HIGH VALUE, LOW-VOLUME TOURISM Another factor that allows us to feel close to this group is that numbers are limited for gorilla trekking in Rwanda, with a maximum of eight people per day allowed to visit each family. “We use the high value, low-volume approach to gorilla trekking,” Michaella Rugwizangoga, the Rwanda Development Board’s chief tourism officer tells me. “This ensures that tourists are able to meet these gentle giants for one life- changing hour, while guaranteeing that the gorillas aren’t stressed. It also enables us to keep tourism
² 3 NOVEMBER 2022 47
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