RWANDA


Before we head towards the lower slopes of Mount Karisimbi, home to the Susa family of gorillas, our guide reiterates the instructions to ensure our visit is as unobtrusive as possible and we each practise the guttural noise that signals to the gorillas that we are friend, not foe. As we set off, I cling to our tracker Matias with a mix of excitement and trepidation at being in such unfamiliar territory.


Epic encounter It’s not long before we spot the unmistakable sleek black coats of two gorillas up ahead, stark against the abundant lush greenery of bamboo shoots and ferns. We approach the pair – who we learn are mischievous twins Byishimo and Impano – with cautious steps as they grapple playfully with one another. Suddenly, Matias signals for me to halt, his iÞià yiVkin} oÛiÀ mÞ ÃhoÕl`iÀ°


ÃloÜlÞ ÌÕÀn >ÀoÕn`


PICTURES: Rwandan guides lead visitors to see silverback gorillas in Volcanoes National Park Credits: Shutterstock/Papa Bravo; Pensara


as a colossal silverback strides out on all fours less than a metre away from me. My heart races as Matias tugs me along to a safer distance, all the Ühili kii«in} mÞ iÞià wÝi` on Ìhi ÃÌi>`Þ ÞiÌ powerful movements of the family patriarch. My fear is short-lived as he settles down to snack on a bamboo shoot, only sparing me a thoughtful gaze. In fact, each of the 14 gorillas we encounter – another silverback, several sub-adult males and a mother with her four-month-old baby – seem unperturbed by our presence. These are indeed nature’s gentle giants. For an hour – the allotted time for each group to spend with the gorillas – we watch as they munch on greenery, stretch out for a snooze and climb the trees, mesmerised by these creatures that share 98% of our DNA. Visitor numbers to the park are carefully managed, with 112 permits available per day for groups of up to eight people to visit one of the 14 families that live here. Revenue not only ensures the continued protection of the gorillas, but provides employment and is channelled towards local communities. With the gorilla groups scattered across the 62-square-mile park, treks to reach them Û>ÀÞ Üi`ilÞ in `ivwVÕlÌÞ] vÀom > ÃÜivÌ Îä-minÕÌi hiki to a demanding four-hour slog.


ª 78 ASPIRE NOVEMBER 2024 aspiretravelclub.co.uk


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