REVIEWS
CASTELLO DI VICARELLO Maremma, Italy
LOCATION: Nestled in the Tuscan region of Maremma, halfway between Rome and Florence, Castello di Vicarello is surrounded by bucolic beauty. The nearby towns and villages of Siena, Montalcino, Castiglione della Pescaia, Montepulciano and Pienza are all accessible by car.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS: It wasn’t Castello di Vicarello’s general manager we met first, but Uva, the hotel’s resident labrador- maremma-cross, who led us to reception with a nonchalant swagger before rolling around in the shade. Uva is something of a local legend at Castello di Vicarello, and sets the tone for the relaxed nature of this 12th-century castle in the hills.
THE FACTS: Castello di Vicarello was in ruins when Italian couple Aurora and Carlo Baccheschi Berti bought it in the 1980s. They spent the next 12 years refurbishing the estate, drawing on their global travels to design each space. The 10 suites have a quirky feel, with vintage furniture, Italian ceramics and Indonesian antiques set alongside contemporary artwork and lighting. Intriguing details in our room, Suite Vicario, include an oversized timber bed frame that requires a stool to get onto; a modern black lacquered sofa; and a Balinese-style bathroom with one of the deepest copper bathtubs I’ve ever seen. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are held in cosy corners in the main house – guests can dine whenever they like, with no need to book. The food is spectacular, made using organic produce from the estate’s vegetable garden. Beyond the
main house are two marble infinity pools – one set amid quiet gardens, the other offering wide-ranging views.
IDEAL FOR: Couples will adore the romantic setting of this magical property. Sleeping 25 guests in total, the estate is also an attractive option for buyouts and weddings. Capacity will be boosted to 30 next year when Castello di Vicarello unveils a two-bedroom villa with a private pool.
EXPLORE: There’s plenty to keep guests entertained, including wine tastings, olive and grape harvesting, truffle hunting, horse riding and Vespa tours of surrounding villages. Guests can join one of the hotel’s cooking classes, where they’ll master old family recipes with a glass of wine in hand.
WOW: You don’t have to make too many decisions at Castello di Vicarello. At breakfast, delicious things arrive without us uttering a word – a plate piled high with pastries, smoothies made from fruits in the garden. And there’s no rush in the evenings – we watch the sun set before heading to dinner, where staff remember our drink order and suggest dishes. You feel as though you’re staying at a very stylish (very affluent) friend’s house, where you can truly kick back and relax.
BOOK IT: Rates start from €795 based on two sharing on a B&B basis.
CASTELLODIVICARELLO.COM Erica Rich
aspiretravelclub.co.uk
NOVEMBER 2024 ASPIRE
109
CREDIT: Victor Fitz
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