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restaurant review GARA ROCK East Portlemouth, Salcombe


W


arm welcomes from friendly staff and wood burning stove prove


Gara Rock is not just for summer! Admittedly, you miss endless-horizon views when dark outside but muted hues, snuggly soft furnishings, tactile surfaces warm to touch, and soft- glow lighting inside ensure there is nowhere you would rather be. Today’s iteration sees the principal building comprising hotel, restau- rant and spa, individually stunning, all combining to create a haven of clifftop tranquillity – perfect antidote to stresses of life ‘beyond the lanes’. With beautifully appointed Spa; heated outdoor Pool; direct access to a stunning stretch of the SW Coast Path plus plushily comfortable all-day Cinema, days can be easily filled as you choose, whatever the weather. But you don’t have to reside


to enjoy Gara Rock! Pop over for morning coffee, recharge with lunch on your coastal walk; indulge in the Spa; admire idyllic sunsets over early evening drinks with friends; or – as we did – enjoy dinner. An inade- quate word to describe the delights we had! The team of talented chefs create


wonderful plates of food which please both eye and palate; tantalise with subtle hardly-there flavours you know the dish would be the poorer without; celebrate the abundance and excellence of our local ‘larders’; leave you satisfied whilst regretting savouring the final morsel, they are


BY AMANDA BLOOMER


so good. Server Mara (enthusiastic, knowl- edgeable and charming) operated with quiet efficiency noticeable across all staff – General Manager Peter has assembled a personable team sharing his pleasure working at Gara Rock. Do try Coombeshead Sourdough


(darkly delicious, nutty caramelised crust) and Whey Butter (salt crystals


“You don’t have to


reside to enjoy Gara Rock!”


glistening) – paired with bright blowsy Nocellara olives. Su’s choices : Ham Hock Terrine with homemade pickles; followed by Cornish Rack of Lamb, Jersey Royals, crushed peas; then Valrhona white chocolate mousse, hazelnut,


poached cherries, caramel ice cream. Su declared her terrine “exception-


al” – rich, flavoursome, dense; subtle undertones from herbs threading through; tastebuds piquing mustard infused ‘mayo’; assorted pickles, punchy yet restrained, delicate cara- melised onion strands a particular joy. As “pinkly-perfect as lamb could


be”, so good the rack bones just had to be nibbled! Sweetest of tubers, fresh lightly steamed vegetables, glorious roasting jus combining to deliver a dish which simply couldn’t be bettered. Swiss Valrhona chocolate is argua- bly the best in the world so with that ingredient, you expect the dish to be stunning – Su was not disappointed! Hazelnut enlivened the base;


mousse, deep, light, creamy, rich, smooth; poached cherries, “so delicious”; fabulously delicate ‘fudge’ layer topping. Her murmurs of de- light evidencing her pleasure! I selected Cornwall Crab, yellow


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