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54 restaurant review


An affectionate embrace from a good friend… such is the welcome at The Jetty, the restaurant-with-views at


Salcombe Harbour Hotel. And what views! Hard to concen-


trate on menu choices but detach yourself from the glorious panorama of Salcombe Harbour and enjoy a thoughtful selection of unfussy dishes celebrating our excellent local larders, the land and sea. The restrained à la carte menu, their Day Boat Specials, or the prix fixe card - the cuisine is uncomplicated yet interesting; pared back, elegant presentations and exquisite taste combinations. No extraneous foams or fluffs, the only important items are on the plate i.e. the principal ingredi- ents; not the Jackson Pollock-esque ‘decoration’, sounds of the sea nor attendant smoke. I am not alone preferring simplicity


to complexity in the kitchen; Auguste Escoffier (1836-1935), ‘the king of chefs and the chef of kings’, practised and preached ‘faites simple’ (do it simply). Sipping The Jetty’s divine non-al- coholic mocktails (English Garden for me, Elderflower Mockito for Su) we took time choosing. Su certainly did, exclaiming, ‘I know the menu is sen- sibly sized, not overwhelming, but there is just so much on there I could


BY AMANDA BLOOMER THE JETTY RESTAURANT AT SALCOMBE HARBOUR HOTEL


happily choose, I can’t decide!’ Settling on New Season Aspar-


agus, Chorizo and Scotch Egg, followed by Veal Milanese topped by Hen’s Egg and richly dense Truffle Mayo, she was not disappointed, only realising too late both her choices included egg. However, each were so deliciously served in their respective forms, this proved no


“A nothing-is-too


much-trouble attitude exudes from the entire team”


hardship! Torn between two main dishes,


I asked whether Chef would kindly prepare a starter portion of Crab Linguine for me – during a busy Sat-


urday evening service, the response was unhesitatingly ‘Of course’. A nothing-is-too much-trouble attitude exudes from the entire team, spilling out of the kitchen, superbly headed by Chef Jamie; epitomised by Restau- rant Supervisor Gheorge, whose attention to detail is impeccable; and our adorable server Fiona whose bubbling enthusiasm was infectious. Leaving me free to enjoy the


Grilled Rump of Lamb with Shep- herd’s Pie, Broad Beans and Carrots. A cautionary note - do not order additional sides to accompany this or you will fail to enjoy every last morsel of what has to be my most enjoyable lamb dish ever. Perfectly pink lamb rump vied against tender pulled lamb under a crown of herb crumbed creamy mash…simply delicious. My vegetable accompani-


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