52 Food & Drink


possibilities from boiled with soldiers to 3 egg omelettes still slightly runny in the middle, to perfectly poached in simmering slightly-vinegared water ready to be laid on buttered toast and cer- emoniously daggered for the yolk to come spilling over the plate. In our house, being out of eggs


T


induces the same sense of nervous panic as having no garlic or onions or running out of bread. A fairly first world panic admittedly but if most of our savoury cooking starts with chopping an onion, an egg opens up a whole world of instant meals, baking - sweet and savoury – and generally culinary creations. We’re lucky in Kingswear to have


Fountain Violet Farm at the top of the hill, home to many happy laying chickens with a spectacular view over the bay and up to Dart- moor. Not your normal chicken’s eye view I would guess. Buy them in the Dartmouth Butchers, Smith Street Del and Moor @ 13 and your eggy experience will never be the same – fully yellow yolks, plump whites and full of flavour. Many of our cookery school


students love cooking because it takes them away from their everyday work. We have plenty of police, A&E staff and flight crew as well as those with more regular jobs who love the fact the act of cooking makes you concentrate on what you’re doing and makes you,


hink of an egg – that lovely nutty brown ovoid cara- pace of versatility. So many


Written by David & Holly Jones manafromdevon.com Tel.01803 752943


as they say, present. A bit like skiing or surfing without the danger of head-planting in a snow drift or swallowing half of the wave that’s just upended you. Scrambling


“the fact the act of


cooking makes you concentrate on what


you’re doing and makes you, as they say, present.”


some eggs is as close to danger as we get but that act of standing over a pan, constantly stirring some beaten eggs in gently melted butter over a low heat to form large, luscious yellow lumps slightly seasoned with some salt and pep- per, the process being almost more than the result, requires a complete focus in the present. Too high a heat or leaving it for any time at all will result in a pan that’s more than


a bit of a soaker and in some cases has resulted in it being thrown out with the egg shells. We’ve aban- doned our non-stick egg pan for a heavy duty stainless steel one that doesn’t mind a scouring but by its very thickness means the eggs rarely stick. For all the complex cooking, an egg can be part of one of our most favourite egg dishes - one with only 3 ingredients – potatoes, onions and eggs, a Spanish Tortilla of course. No additional rummag- ing through the fridge for added ingredients or emptying those little bowls of leftovers. There may only be 3 ingredients but concentration and attention to detail is needed in spades if you want a joy-filled tortilla rather than a solidly grey mat of undercooked potatoes and over-cooked eggs. In Spain making tortilla is a


serious business and friends can take up to an hour to slowly cook the potatoes and onions in olive oil over the tiniest heat to bring out the vegetal sweetness without colouring them. Only once the first 2 ingredients are perfectly tender are they drained and combined with the eggs before putting them back in the pan and cooking slowly


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