their violent marks were evidenced in smashed store windows and spray- painted slogans up and down that famed boulevard.
We were a bit remiss in booking a din- ner show at the renowned Moulin Rouge, but were more than pleased by the cabaret performance we caught at the historic Lido - with fantastic dancers who are tastefully racy in all the right ways.
The next day, we joined the tour that was provided; a combo walking/bus trip of the highlights of Paris. Upon en- tering the incredibly-historic Notre Dame cathedral, Alison purchased a prayer candle for two euro, to light for a friend back home who was going through a desperate time. “Don’t burn the place down, Al!” Dana joked while her sister gently placed the votive into a candle holder.
Upon entering the lobby of the Pull- man, we were greeted by our program director, Sabine, who carefully ex- plained the when and the where of our next two days while in Paris. With her outgoing personality and athletic movements, Sabine proved to be the consummate hostess all throughout our trip.
I’ve been to Paris numerous times - this being my third trip there in the last four years alone. No matter how often I go, I don’t tire of its incredible beauty and romantic vibe. But the city (for me, at least) always holds a bit of underlying edginess to it - the crazy scooter and motorcyclists darting in and out of traffic; the somewhat hos- tile, native Parisians and clueless tourist alike who walk to the left along the sidewalk instead of the right (and right into you); the packs of “bad boys” (pickpockets) and shady “gypsy” girls (more pickpockets) who try to get you to sign their fake “peti- tions” while young cohorts attempt to steal your valuables - and through it all, the specter of the infamous “Yellow Vest” protesters, who had been tearing up the Champs Elysees on weekend nights throughout this past spring, it all added a slight element of prospec- tive danger our travels.
During that first night, while strolling uphill toward the Arc de Triomphe,
6 6 Julyz August2019
It was said in jest, yet two weeks later, we - along with most of the rest of the world - watched in horror as the site went up in flames. Stunned, Dana and I gave silent thanks for having had the chance to see the cathedral before ca- tastrophe struck.
My favorite lines overhead during this leg of the journey -
Tourist: “Who built the Eiffel Tower?”
Tourist to a waiter (while eating onion soup in a brasserie: “What kind of bread is this?” Hint: It wasn’t pumper- nickel!
If or when I return to Paris, I don’t think I’ll be back to that particular hotel or stay at any property along the River Seine. for that matter, as the body of water tends to emanate a sewage-y smell, which seeped into the lobby and through the Pullman’s hall- ways. Too, the staff we met there (at times) interacted with us like we were bothering them - too many eye rolls and off-putting sighs of disdain.
Thankfully, Viking had a hospitality desk staffed with friendly folks in the lobby throughout our stay, in case we needed assistance or an optional tour booking.
The bus trip to the cruise ship first took us to the small city of Luxem-
bourg, where we were able to join a guided tour of the pocket-sized city- central. Instead, I went on my own walkabout for a couple of hours and enjoyed one of its culinary claims-to- fame, Quiche Lorraine. “Make sure to be back by [garble, garble”] three o’- clock sharp,” our guide insisted over the bus loudspeaker. Little did I know she actually said “ten till three…” I re- turned precisely at 3pm, to find my wife pleading with the driver to remain while she frantically scanned for me.
Boarding, I did the walk of shame down the aisle while the other passen- gers glared at me for holding them up…
We then made a quick stop over at the American Cemetery where over 5,000 WWII soldiers, including General George S. Patton, are interred. It was a very solemn place to be, especially for Don, who had lost an uncle over near Normandy.
Soon, we pulled up to our ship.
Named after the Norse frost giant - its interior replete in Scandinavian blonde woods and cut-glass partitions, the Viking long ship Idi offered clean and quiet comfort for the next eight days.
When I state clean, I mean it was im- maculate - hallway walls were scuff- free, silverware was always perfectly polished, and our stateroom - which offered enough space plus a much-ap- preciated balcony - was always at- tended to.
I cannot say enough niceties about the ship or its crew, who always went out of their way to make us feel right at home. With a 3-1 passenger to staff ratio (150 passengers/50 staffers) we were never wanting for anything.
Then there as the food: a full breakfast and lunch buffet each day followed by a lavish dinner, plus a 24-hour light re- freshment station. This wasn’t the jumbo cruise ship food orgy of bland foods. In fact, I never ate to over-indul- gence. Too, all of the fruits and veggies were always fresh, and the young chef, Srdjan Simeunovic, even took time to show me his raised gardens bursting with fragrant herbs along the top deck. Although beer and quality wines come with lunch and dinner, I opted for the additional Silver Spirits beverage pack-
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