Great Days Out Border hopping to beautiful Rye


A regular visitor to Rye, Mid Kent Living’s Dawn Kingsford jumped at the chance to visit the historic ‘seaside’ town. Here she let’s you in on a handful of its many secrets…


L


ovely Rye, what secrets you hide, across the border in Sussex.


A frequent target of troops from France and Spain – as one of the the shortest crossing points from the Continent - today’s invaders are more likely to be in search of a pleasant day out. Te historic town of Rye certainly has a tale


to tell.


While its status from 1336 as a cinque port made it key to the country’s defences, the busy harbour made this a prosperous trading town, with privileges including exemption from tax, in return for maintaining ships for defence. Under this royal protection, Rye thrived, with its port receiving wine imports from France and exporting home-grown wool to the Continent. But, aſter the 14th century, the sea that had


brought this wave of economic growth, turned its back on the town, leaving it to flounder and fend for itself once again.


It is this resilience that has created Rye’s fascinating history, full of twists and turns, both on the wrong and right side of the law. At 730 years of age, this Sussex gem is now nearly two miles from the sea, the result of natural silting and reclaimation by farmers who found the salt marshes provided a much-needed new source of income for the town. Tey bred sheep that could cope with the wet conditions and which were prized by the French. But, to cash in on this trade, the government imposed a Customs tax, which saw wool smuggling – or owling – develop instead. While wool was smuggled out,


tea and


spirits were brought in. Its closeness to the sea, unpredictable marshes and narrow streets, made it the ideal place to store illegal cargoes. Mermaid Street will reward you with evidence of this underground trade, where stocks were hidden in the cellars of homes


with secretive names including Te House Opposite, Te House with the Seat and Te House with Two Front Doors, that can still be found today.


Te Mermaid Inn - one of England’s oldest inns - with its cellars, cut from the rock, dates back to 1156 was in the mid 1700s the headquarters of the 600 strong notorious Hawkhurst gang.


Today, old Rye harbour still has a small fishing fleet, with boats that catch scallops, plaice and sole in the shallow waters of Rye Bay. Much of the catch still make it across the water – legally – to Boulogne.


Te Citadel remains – with its fortifications


and gates - a small town with a proud and innovative population of about 4,000. It lays claim to Rye hopware potery; shops that will appeal to collectors; scenery and wildlife, as well as its historic buildings.


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