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99


Santorini.


green and slate blue was amazing. It is hard to imagine the force of the explosion that scooped out this deep bay. As it was October, the


caldera was fairly quiet, save for three huge cruise liners anchored below the capital town of Thira. We anchored off Nea Kammeni, the volcanic plug of the volcano. We were bobbing about in the crater of an active volcano! The next morning we


sailed round to the harbour at Vlikadha. The harbour guy who permitted us to come in said it was free to stay as it is a fishing port rather than a marina. The following day his colleague, George, demanded €34 for two nights (even though there were no facilities and it was out of season). This was more than we had paid for any mooring all summer. Carl tried to beat George down on price but to no avail... until he said he used to be a fisherman (just a wee fib). George’s attitude changed in an instant; slapping Carl on the back he said we only had to pay €12.


Carl walking on Exo Mountain above Spinalonga Lagoon, Crete.


We discovered the sci-fi looking


Vlychada Beach just outside the harbour with its strange and wonderful


pyroclastic rock cliffs and gritty black volcanic sand. In the evening we anchored outside


the harbour ready to to set off for Crete in the early hours. Some 45 tripper catamarans full of holiday makers enjoying sunset cruises to the caldera motored back into the ‘fishing harbour’ to tie up for the night. At 2am we set off for


Greece’s largest island, 68nm away. We arrived at Spinalonga lagoon 13 hours later. Spinalonga Island is a former leper colony, now


a tourist attraction. Our plan, like many other


cruising yachts, was to stay at anchor before heading to Leonie’s winter mooring at Agios Nikolaos Marina on November 1. The town of Elounda on the shores of the lagoon had


a weekly market, cafés and shops for provisions and the mountains above were great for long walks. For a change of scene we sailed to the town of Sitia, 23nm away, spending a few days there. While at Agios Nikolaos Marina we explored the Lasithi


Mountain range, Richtis Gorge and visited the ancient Minoan capital of Knossos Palace and its fascinating museum containing the mysterios Phaistos Disc. The marina is the friendliest we have stayed in. A


lovely community of live-aboard cruisers winter there and organise a host of activities. We joined the walking group and enjoyed Sunday barbecues with our new friends, as well as tennis sessions and (for me) yoga classes. There were also birthday parties and a talent night (live music and singing) at the local Irish bar to revel in before flying home for Christmas and to top up our cruising funds.


Ginny at The Chora, Folegrandos.


The volcanic plug of Nea Kammeni from Thira.


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