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ANTIQUES 073


Everlasting love If you fancy giving or receiving


something a bit different this Valentine’s, perhaps something more subtle and less mass-produced but eminently more meaningful, then it’s time to explore the world of Victorian jewellery


Jennie Buist Brown


Many antique shops have a good collection of Victorian jewellery and will be able to authenticate the piece you are interested in. Jewellery shops, local auction houses and galleries also often have a section of antique pieces for sale. It is still possible to fi nd some good buys both online and at fl ea markets and boot fairs if you know what you’re looking for. So if you want to give a sparkling gift of love with a beautiful hidden meaning this Valentine’s Day here are some of the symbols to look out for and what they mean. • An acrostic ring with a ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, another ruby and a diamond spells out ‘REGARD’. • A crescent moon and fl owers brooch would often be worn by a bride. The fl owers represent the nectar, or ‘honey’ part of the word ‘honeymoon’.


JEWELLERY WAS A


WAY OF EXPRESSING A DEEP MESSAGE


T


his month it’s hard to ignore the shops full of red roses, heart cards, chocolate assortments, teddy bears and helium balloons all announcing


the imminent arrival of Valentine’s Day. But if you fancy giving or receiving something a bit different, perhaps something more subtle and less mass-produced but more meaningful, then it’s time to explore the world of Victorian jewellery. According to recent studies, although Christmas is now the favourite time for couples to become engaged, Valentine’s Day comes in at a close second, making it the perfect time to buy your loved one a ring. And even if engagement isn’t on the cards, a piece of well-chosen jewellery with a secret message such as a necklace, earrings, brooch or bangle is, in my opinion, the perfect gift. The Victorians were the masters of


hidden messages in jewellery although ‘sentiment’ jewellery was popular


throughout the Middle Ages and well into the 18th century. Rings were made with inscriptions engraved onto the surface or inside the ring. These rings often look like plain wedding bands with inscribed wording. From the early 1800s acrostic jewellery became very popular and included brooches, rings and pendants.


But it was in the Victorian period that


secret messages and symbols became hugely popular as a way of expressing feelings. At a time when men had to go through complicated processes to court women, many of whom were closely guarded by their parents, jewellery was a way of expressing a deep message. In 1840 Queen Victoria received a snake and emerald ring from Prince Albert for their engagement, symbolising eternal love and wisdom. It wasn’t long before other women began wearing similar pieces too.


Some other symbols in Victorian jewellery: Pearls – Tears. Forget-Me-Nots – Remembrance. Doves – Domesticity. Crowned Heart – Love triumphant. Butterfl y – Soul. Clasped Hands – Friendship, lasting love. Arrow – Mortality, love. Crown on Heart – Ruler of my heart. Hand – Friendship, sweetheart, loved one (male). Owl – Vigilance and wisdom. Snake – Everlasting love and wisdom. Buttercup – Happiness, merriment, bliss and glee. Chrysanthemum – Love. Ivy – Everlasting love and marriage. Pansies – Thinking of you. Fern – Sincere. Rose – Love, hope, joy.


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