Split Hvar
cottoning on to its charms. From the moment we arrive at
its picture-postcard harbour – a wide promenade backed by red- roofed houses and lush forest, all overlooked by a stone fortress – I can see why those celebs have chosen Hvar as their favourite port of call.
The enormous main square is
full of cafes and shops, towered over by St Stephen’s Cathedral at one end, but it’s only when you detour into the little side streets that the town’s real character comes to light. Largely built by the Venetians
Gregory of Nin, Split
your wish will be granted – and with his Gandalf-like appearance, I can almost believe it. The pretty seafront promenade
is worth a stroll too, with its array of pavement cafes, ice cream stands and market stalls selling local lavender and other Croatian goodies. But a good tip for a sunny day is the locals’ favourite hangout, Bačvice Beach. It’s only a few minutes’ walk from the historic town (past the port
and across the railway bridge) but doesn’t make it on to most tourists’ radar, so it’s a good spot to let off steam Croatian-style.
l HVAR: CRUISE WITH CLASS
This island has long been beloved by the yachting crowd – Giorgio Armani, Bill Gates and Tom Cruise have visited – but the explosion in popularity of Dalmatian coast cruising means more of us are
after their arrival in 1409, when the whole of the Dalmatian coastline was sold to the Italians for 100,000 gold coins, its Renaissance-style upper town is all winding alleyways and pretty balconies a la Romeo and Juliet, with the signature Venetian lion carved into a well outside the former Governor’s Palace. That Italian influence can still be felt across the country, in its language (many Croatian words have their roots in Italian), its Catholic heritage, but most especially in its cuisine. And in Hvar, one of the best places to
enjoy that fine Italian cooking is the Palace Hotel, a grand colonnaded property converted from the former Duke’s Palace. Not only is the building packed with character and the food packed with flavour, but terrace restaurant San Marco offers sweeping views across the main square and harbour below.
l BRAÇ: SHIFTING SANDS The island of Braç (pronounced ‘Bratch’) is a short sail from Hvar, but the atmosphere is markedly different. While I wouldn’t go so far as to call it quiet, it attracts nothing like the numbers visiting high-end Hvar, so there’s a much greater sense of Croatian island life. The beautiful Zlatni Rat beach is just a few minutes around the
50 •
travelweekly.co.uk — 28 May 2015
FAST FACT Luxury design
hotel D-Resort Sibenik is set to open on
June 1 overlooking Mandalina marina dresort
sibenik.com
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PICTURES: CROATIAN NATIONAL TOURIST BOARD/ANTE VERZOTTI; KATARINA LINE
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