E6


Recipes slaws continued from E1


noodles and what looked like shards of fried onions; shallots, in fact. After the server poured salted- plum dressing over the stack, we identified cucumbers, carrots, ji- cama, daikon radish, ginger and toasted sesame seeds; match- sticks of fried taro root were less obvious. Toasted hazelnuts, something I ordinarily dislike, were prominent and strangely pleasant. The crunch, the sweet- ness and saltiness, the tart ting of the dressing and the sheer mass could have added up to overkill, but instead they blend- ed into blissful harmony. Each bite yielded a different flavor combination, leading me to con- tinue eating the dish long after I wanted to stop, until none re- mained. There was no cabbage, the one ingredient most Americans asso- ciate with slaw. But a slaw is nothing more than a salad. The word coleslaw is derived from the Dutch “koolsla,” meaning cabbage salad. Presumably, Dutch settlers introduced cole- slaw to America in the 18th cen- tury. The slaw at Zentan, so extraor-


dinary that it reigns as Lee’s sig- nature dish, got me thinking about all the other creative ren- ditions in Washington area res- taurants. Inspired chefs are not content just to throw together some mayonnaise, celery seed and slaw mix from a plastic bag; they recognize an opportunity to upgrade burgers, crab cakes and fried chicken by pairing them with side dishes that have depth and pizazz.


Among this season’s stand-


outs: Chef Jeff Tunks’s blue cheese


coleslaw at Acadiana is mayo- based, with Maytag cheese and green peppers. It is served as an accompaniment to fried catfish and smoked tomato tartare. Pitmaster Steve Adelson’s


North Carolina-style coleslaw is zesty, flavored with ketchup, brown sugar and crushed red pepper flakes. “It has a clean taste and no mayonnaise, so that makes it healthier,” says Adelson, who serves the slaw alongside the North Carolina-style bar- becue he sells on weekends at farmers markets in Kensington and Bethesda. Chef Steve Mannino’s aspara- gus and carrot slaw at Rustico in Alexandria has peelings of aspar- agus stalks and carrot dressed with lemon-infused olive oil and lemon juice. He uses the slaw as a bed for fried oysters wrapped with sushi-grade tuna and driz- zled with a lemon aioli. At Art and Soul, chef Travis Timberlake serves a vinegar- based fennel and carrot slaw with barbecued pork ribs and crispy duck wings. Chef Antonio Burrell’s slaw at


Masa 14 near Logan Circle riffs on green papaya salads that are popular in Vietnam, Laos and Thailand. He dresses shredded green papaya, carrots, scallions, cilantro and roasted peanuts with a fish sauce and lime juice vinaigrette and serves the salad with five-spice pork riblets. For something quite different,


chef Kaz Okochi tosses a julienne of jicama, fried tofu, scallions and pickled ginger with hoisin sauce and lemon juice to make a slaw that he offers on occasion with specials at Kaz Sushi Bistro. Scott Hammons’s Hao Long


Dragon Slaw is the topping for pulled-pork sliders at Social in Columbia Heights. It contains shredded zucchini, carrots and apples combined with mint, scal- lions, sesame oil and soy sauce. Now, about the work factor:


Slawmaking involves a good deal of shredding and chopping. But a mandoline and a food processor with a shredding disk can lighten that workload considerably. On the plus side, especially in the heat of summer, none of these recipes requires much, if any, cooking. Well, almost none. Lee’s Singapore slaw calls for preparing an onion oil, a batch of pickled onions and a salted plum vinaigrette. That’s in addition to the minutiae of prepping the 19- plus ingredients, including tracking down micro beet greens, daikon sprouts and ed- ible petals. You might find that a reward- ing endeavor, but in this case, so is making a reservation.


Hagedorn writes the monthly Real Entertaining column for Food. Join him during today’s online Free Range chat at 1 p.m. at www. washingtonpost.com/liveonline, and read his blogpost on testing the Singapore slaw recipe at www. washingtonpost.com/allwecaneat.


Hao Long Dragon Slaw 8 servings


This cabbage-free slaw is served atop Vietnamese pulled pork sliders at Social Restaurant in Columbia


Heights, but it is perfectly wonderful as a side dish served with anything that calls for slaw. MAKE AHEAD: The slaw needs several hours’ refrigeration before serving. It can be made a day in ad-


vance. From Scott Hammons, co-owner of Social Restaurant. INGREDIENTS


· 2 tablespoons unseasoned rice wine vinegar


· 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce


· 2 tablespoons sesame oil


· 1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into long, thin strips (julienne) (about 3 cups)


· 2 tablespoons sugar


· 1 pound zucchini, cut into julienne (about 4 cups)


ONLINE RECIPES cups)


· Leaves from 2 large sprigs mint, chopped (2 tablespoons)


· 2 scallions, white and light-green parts, chopped (2 tablespoons)


· Salt · Freshly ground black pepper


STEPS · Combine the vinegar, sesame oil,


· 1 or 2 apples (about 8 ounces), cored and cut into julienne (about 2


soy sauce and sugar in a large bowl, stirring to dissolve much of the sugar. Add the carrots, zucchini, apple, mint and scallions; toss to coat evenly. Season with salt and pepper to taste.


· Cover; refrigerate for several hours before serving.


NUTRITION | Per serving: 90 calories, 2 g protein, 15 g carbohydrates, 4 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 230 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 10 g sugar


Recipe tested by Nicole Schofer; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com.


MG PG VA


KLMNO Chop, chop: Standout slaws now being served


WEDNESDAY, JULY 7, 2010


Summer Herb Pesto 4 servings


String beans are in abun- dant supply all summer long and, for some reason, partic- ularly appeal-


NOURISH


ing at farm markets. Maybe what I like most is the process of picking through the moun- tain of beans and filling up my bag. It’s a low-key form of for- aging. Whatever the reason, I’m al-


ways looking for new things to do with them. Since I’m also drawn to fresh herbs, I com- bined the two in this dish, in which a trio of herbs is chopped with garlic and olive oil to make a quick, flavorful dressing. Mixing the dressing with the warm beans brings out even more of the herb and garlic aromas. The dressing is garlicky; if you prefer a milder hit of garlic, cook the roughly chopped garlic in a little olive oil for 3 to 4 minutes before adding.


If you can find wax beans,


try them here. The green dressing will complement the pale color of the beans. After assembly, the dish can


PHOTOS BY MICHAEL TEMCHINE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST


be eaten warm right away or served at room temperature up to 2 hours later.


MAKE AHEAD: If you plan


Jicama Inari Slaw 2 to 4 servings


Inari, available at Asian mar-


kets, is fried tofu marinated in sweet soy sauce. It is normally stuffed with sushi rice to make sushi, but it’s cut into thin strips and used as an ingredient for this slaw, which often makes an ap- pearance on the specials menu at Kaz Sushi Bistro in Washington. MAKE AHEAD: The slaw can be made several hours in ad- vance. From chef Kaz Okochi of Kaz Sushi Bistro and Masa 14.


INGREDIENTS


· 8 ounces (Asmall) jicama, cut into long, thin strips (julienne; 1Acups)


· 4 ounces inari, cut into julienne (see headnote; may substitute diced


firm tofu)


· Ateaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice


· 1 tablespoon hoisin sauce


· 1 tablespoon chopped scallion, white and light-green parts (from 1


scallion)


· 1 tablespoon chopped pickled ginger


STEPS


· Gently toss together the jicama, inari, hoisin sauce, lemon juice, scallion and pickled ginger in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.


NUTRITION | Per serving (based on 4): 50 calories, 3 g protein, 8 g carbohydrates, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 125 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar


Recipe tested by Kelly DiNardo; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com.


• Steve Adelson’s North Carolina-Style Coleslaw


Asparagus Carrot Slaw 4 servings


Rustico chef Steve Mannino uses this as a bed for fried oysters wrapped with sushi-grade tuna and drizzled with a lemon aioli. The slaw’s lemony tang makes it a good side dish for just about any kind of seafood, and it would pair nicely with chicken or pork.


INGREDIENTS


· 1 large carrot, peeled and trimmed · 8 large stalks asparagus, ends and tips trimmed (reserve tips for another


use, if desired)


· Asmall red onion, cut into very thin strips (julienne)


· 1 tablespoon lemon-infused olive oil


· 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil · 1Ateaspoons lemon juice · Salt · Freshly ground black pepper


STEPS


· Use a vegetable peeler to create long ribbons of carrot, rotating the carrot as you work to create as many ribbons as possible, stopping before you reach the tough core. Let them fall into a medium bowl.


· Create ribbons from the asparagus stalks in the same manner as the


carrot and add them to the carrot strips. Add the onion, lemon oil, extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice, mixing well. Season with salt and pepper to taste.


· Cover and refrigerate the slaw for up to 1 hour before serving.


NUTRITION | Per serving: 70 calories, 1 g protein, 4 g carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 85 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar


Recipe tested by Jane Touzalin; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com.


• B. Smith’s Collard Green Slaw Antonio Burrell’s Travis Timberlake’s


Vinegar Slaw 4 servings


Fennel, with its distinct anise taste, is what gives this slaw its zing. It is served family-style with barbecued pork ribs and crispy duck wings at Art and Soul res- taurant, an Obama favorite in Washington.


MAKE AHEAD: The slaw needs several hours’ refrigeration before it is served. It can be re- frigerated a day in advance. From chef Travis Timberlake of


Art and Soul. INGREDIENTS


· Dcup unseasoned rice wine vinegar


· 2 large bulbs fennel (cores, stalks and outer layers removed), cut into long, thin strips (julienne; about 2 cups)


· 1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into julienne (about Bcup)


· 1 tablespoon chopped parsley · 1 tablespoon chopped chervil


STEPS


· Whisk together the vinegars, sugar and oil in a large bowl until much of the sugar is dissolved. Add the fennel, red onion, carrot, parsley and chervil; mix well.


· Cover and refrigerate for several hours before serving.


NUTRITION | Per serving: 140 calories, 0 g protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 10 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 30 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 8 g sugar


Recipe tested by Trey Johnson; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com.


· 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar · 2 tablespoons sugar · 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


· Asmall red onion, halved and cut into julienne (Ccup)


Blue Cheese Slaw 4 servings


Executive chef Jeff Tunks cre-


ated this slaw to accompany crispy catfish with smoked toma- to tartare, a specialty of Acadiana Restaurant in downtown Wash- ington.


MAKE AHEAD: The slaw can be made and refrigerated a day in advance.


INGREDIENTS


· Bmedium head green cabbage (loose or discolored outer leaves removed), cored, then shredded or chopped (2 cups)


· 1 small carrot, shredded or chopped (Dcup)


· Jmedium red onion, cut into thin strips (julienne; 2 tablespoons)


· Dmedium green bell pepper, cut into julienne (Dcup)


· Dcup regular or low-fat mayonnaise (do not use nonfat)


· 2 ounces Maytag blue cheese, crumbled (Dcup)


· 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice


· Salt · Freshly ground black pepper


STEPS


· Combine the cabbage, carrot, red onion, bell pepper, mayonnaise, blue cheese and lemon juice in a large bowl; mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste.


· Cover; refrigerate for several hours before serving.


NUTRITION | Per serving (using low-fat mayonnaise): 110 calories, 4 g protein, 5 g carbohydrates, 9 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 380 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber, 3 g sugar


Recipe tested by Trey Johnson; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com.


Papaya Slaw 4 servings


MAKE AHEAD: The dressing can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week. From chef Antonio Burrell of


Masa 14 in Northwest Washing- ton.


INGREDIENTS


For the dressing · 1 tablespoon panela or piloncillo Mexican brown sugar (may substitute


1 tablespoon dark brown sugar plus a few drops of molasses)


· Dcup fish sauce · Ecup olive oil


· Freshly squeezed juice of 4 limes (A cup)


· Dteaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (may substitute a small piece of small red chili pepper, seeded)


· 1 medium clove garlic For the slaw


· 2 pounds (about 2 medium) green papaya, shredded (3 cups)


· 1 or 2 medium carrots, peeled and shredded (Ccup)


· Leaves from Abunch cilantro, chopped (Bcup)


· 5 or 6 scallions, white and light-green parts, cut crosswise into


A-inch pieces (Ccup)


· Ccup roasted unsalted peanuts, chopped


STEPS


· For the dressing: Combine the panela, fish sauce, lime juice, olive oil, crushed red pepper flakes and garlic in a blender. Process until smooth.


· For the slaw: Combine the papaya, carrot, cilantro, scallion and peanuts


in a large bowl. Add Ccup of dressing, or more as needed, and mix well. (Any unused dressing can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.)


· Taste, and adjust the seasoning as needed before serving.


NUTRITION | Per serving: 100 calories, 0 g protein, 2 g carbohydrates, 10 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 270mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 1 g sugar


Recipe tested by Erin Miller; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com.


?


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on washingtonpost.com


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FOR THE WASHINGTON POST JAMES M. THRESHER Kaz Okochi’s


to make this dish in advance, add the step of shocking the just-cooked green beans in a bowl of ice water; that will help them stay green. — Stephanie Witt Sedgwick


INGREDIENTS


· Salt · 1 pound green or wax beans (ends trimmed), cut into


1-to-2-inch lengths


· Dcup loosely packed parsley leaves, coarsely chopped


· Dcup loosely packed dill sprigs, coarsely chopped


· 1 large bunch chives, coarsely chopped (Dcup)


· 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil


· Freshly ground black pepper · 1 medium clove garlic


STEPS


· Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the beans and cook for 6 to 7 minutes, until just tender.


· Meanwhile, combine the parsley, dill and chives in a pile on


a cutting board. Add salt and pepper to taste.


· Chop the garlic into the pile of herbs so that the mixture ends up


finely chopped. Transfer to a small bowl and add the oil; mix well. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.


· When the beans have cooked, drain them in a colander; transfer


immediately to a bowl and add the herb pesto. Stir to coat evenly. Serve right away, or let cool to room temperature and serve within 2 hours.


NUTRITION | Per serving: 100 calories, 2 g protein, 9 g carbohydrates, 7 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 80 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 2 g sugar


Recipe tested by Stephanie Witt Sedgwick; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com.


String Beans With


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