E2
Quick DINNER IN 35 MINUTES
PHOTOS BY JAMES M. THRESHER FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
PHOTO GALLERY: See how chef Susur Lee makes this dish at
www.washingtonpost.com/food.
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WEDNESDAY, JULY 7, 2010 Poached Fillets of Sole and Salmon Thailandaise 4 servings
Finalist Susur Lee came across as intense and a bit scary during the most recent season of “Top Chef Masters” on Bravo, but in person he couldn’t be a nicer, more Zenlike fellow to cook with. In town recently to check in at Zentan, his Thomas Circle res- taurant, the 51-year-old chef-res- taurateur accepted the less- stressful challenge of creating a quick weeknight dish for Post readers.
A Washington Landmark Since 1875
Lee was not intimidated by timing issues: “I can put it all in a blender and do it way faster than 30 minutes,” he joked. (In fact, he did use a blender.) The key was limiting the recipe’s scope; Zen- tan’s signature Singapore Slaw, mentioned in David Hagedorn’s story on slaw and related recipes, calls for several dozen ingredi- ents. This poached-fish dish uses only 12, including salt and pep-
per. The chef wanted to keep it light for summer, with eye ap- peal: “People are visual, and eat- ing’s about pleasing,” he says. We gave him a choice of two kinds of fish, and he went for both — something that might not occur to a home cook. Working with precision and speed, Lee carved small planks of salmon and sole and matched them in pairs. Then he rolled them around ginger, tender cilantro stems and a
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Bonnie S. Benwick, The Post’s deputy Food editor, edited and tested this recipe. Questions? E-mail her at
food@washpost.com.
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grind of black pepper. Carrots had cooked to near-perfection in the coconut-milk broth/sauce by the time the fish was introduced. In don’t-waste-anything mode,
Lee trimmed carrot tops to use as a dramatic but optional garnish. Start to finish, he was done in 23 minutes. A cook of average skill should be able to make this dish in about half an hour. The chef recommended serv- ing this with ripe mashed plan- tains — again, something unex- pected yet doable for a week- night meal. Good call, chef.
INGREDIENTS 59¢
· 21 ounces (about 1A cans) low-fat coconut milk
· 8 ounces skinless salmon fillet, preferably center-cut
STEPS
· Trim the carrots; cut 5 of them into 1-inch pieces (no need to peel). Cut the remaining carrot into 1-inch diamond-like shapes, rolling the carrot a quarter-turn before each subsequent cut. Trim off the root ends and dark-green tops of the scallions, then cut the remaining white and light-green parts into 3-inch pieces; peel away a few of the outer layers. Cut the lime in half.
· Place the pieces from the 5 carrots into a blender; add 1 can of the
coconut milk. Puree until fairly smooth, then strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a large saucepan; use a spatula to press the solids, extracting as much liquid as possible. Place over medium-high heat. Squeeze the juice of A lime into the saucepan, then drop in the spent half. Add the diamond-cut pieces of carrot and 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce, stirring to combine.
· Cut the ginger root in half; smash a 1-inch piece (again, no need to peel)
and add to the saucepan. Peel the remaining inch of ginger, then cut crosswise into thin strips.
· Once the mixture starts to bubble, remove the spent lime half and
reduce the heat to medium-low. Season with a grind or two of black pepper and the crushed red pepper flakes; cook for about 8 minutes, stirring once or twice.
· Meanwhile, cut some of the tender stems of cilantro into 1-inch pieces.
· Remove any pin bones from the salmon fillets and trim off any thin
side pieces (and save for another use, if desired). Cut the gray sole lengthwise into 1A-inch-wide strips; run your finger along the center bone line to remove any bones from the fish. Cut the salmon into strips that are about 1 inch wide and 3 inches long. Lay the strips of gray sole on a clean work surface. Lightly season with salt and pepper, then place a piece of the salmon fillet on top of each piece of sole, aligning the bottom edges. Place a few pieces of the ginger strips and several cilantro stem pieces in the middle of the salmon, then start rolling forward from the bottom to create two-toned paupiettes. Place them sitting up in the saucepan as you work.
· Increase the heat to medium-high and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the
fish is just cooked through and the carrot pieces are tender. Discard the smashed ginger.
· Transfer the paupiettes and cooked carrots to a large, wide,
shallow bowl.
· Meanwhile, trim the root ends and dark-green ends of 3 scallions, then
cut the remaining white and light-green parts into 3-inch pieces. Place them on the gas burner of your stove to char slightly on all sides; this should take about 2 minutes. (Alternatively, place them on a pan 4 to 6 inches away from the top broiling element and preheat the broiler. Cook to achieve a slight char.)
· Strain the coconut milk-carrot mixture into a separate saucepan,
Lb.
discarding any solids. Place over medium-low heat. Add the remaining half-can of coconut milk. Squeeze in the juice of the remaining lime half, then stir in the remaining A tablespoon of fish sauce. Stir to combine; heat through, then pour around the fish.
· Garnish with a few leaves of cilantro and the charred scallions.
Serve warm or at room temperature family-style at the table.
NUTRITION | Per serving: 290 calories, 23 g protein, 6 g carbohydrates, 17 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 60 mg cholesterol, 720 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugar
Recipe tested by Susur Lee and Bonnie S. Benwick; e-mail questions to
food@washpost.com.
· 1A tablespoons fish sauce · 2-inch piece ginger root · Freshly ground black pepper · Pinch crushed red pepper flakes · D bunch cilantro
· 8 ounces skinless gray sole fillets · Kosher or sea salt
· 6 small carrots, preferably organic · 5 or 6 scallions · 1 lime
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