WEDNESDAY, JULY 7, 2010
KLMNO
A venerable American rosé goes gray WINE
Dave McIntyre Second in a two-part series
Grahm poured me a taste of his 2009 Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare. Instead of its usual robust rosé color, the wine was a lighter shade of pale: barely pink at all and, in the poor light of the room, almost gray. Grahm nodded. “I wanted to
“Y
make a more honest wine,” he said. “I wanted to make a true gris.” He looked worried, aware that he was tinkering with a product that had won many fans since he bottled his first vin gris in 1984. We were in Penn Quarter at a tasting of the Rhone Rangers, a group of vintners primarily in California, Oregon and Washing- ton who produce wines from tra- ditional Rhone Valley grapes such as syrah, grenache and viog- nier. (Virginia was ably repre- sented at the tasting by Jordan Harris of Tarara Winery, who was pouring his syrah and viognier.) Grahm, by far the best known of the dozen or so winemakers on hand and a 2009 James Beard Award winner for his book, “Been Doon So Long,” stood wedged in a corner behind a table cluttered with wine bottles and a tub of ice. It would have been easy to miss him altogether, but then he came out with one of the offbeat analogies for which he is famous: “I find it reminiscent of a good Burgundy rosé, minimalist, like in jazz when you don’t play all the notes.” At least, that’s how I scribbled it in my notebook. In our brief conversation at the Rhone Rangers tasting and in a subsequent e-mail exchange, Grahm told me why and how he decided to change the Vin Gris de Cigare. In 1984 he called the wine “vin gris” because at the time rosé was not in fashion. (Vin gris, which translates as “gray wine,” is in fact a type of rosé made pri- marily from red grapes, with the juice pulled off the grape skins almost immediately after crush- ing to avoid getting color.) “In the old days, the pink was largely a byproduct of the red wines we produced,” Grahm says, referring to his Rhone-style blends called Le Cigare Volant and Old Tele- gram. “Because the grapes were not exactly perfect for red wine, we were compelled to bleed off some of the juice to achieve greater concentration. The pink juice was high in Brix” — a meas- ure of sugar content — “so we would either water it back or put the resulting wine through re- verse osmosis or take it for a spin in the spinning cone to bring the alcohol back to a reasonable lev- el.” In other words, it was a prod-
uct of modern industrial wine- making techniques widely used in California. Four years ago, Grahm em-
braced biodynamic viticulture, the somewhat holistic farming method based on the teachings of Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner. Biodynamics have helped produce healthier grapes and more-balanced wines that don’t require massive interven- tion in the cellar to correct minor flaws, Grahm says. He is growing grapes specifi- cally for the Vin Gris de Cigare, which allows him to harvest them at lower sugar levels and higher acidity, ideal for rosé. The
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ou changed the vin gris,” I said, stating the obvious as Randall
Recommendations
The 2009 Vin Gris de Cigare from Bonny Doon Vineyards is not only a departure from previous vintages, but also from the prevailing style of New World rosé, which favors a dark pink color and a sappy finish, often with noticeable sweetness. Some local wineries
have been producing worthy rosés in recent vintages. Some that Dave McIntyre has enjoyed recently include Paradise Springs and Boxwood from 2009. Ingleside, Barboursville and Virginia Wineworks are also labels to look for.
BBB Exceptional BBExcellent BVery Good
Prices are approximate. Check
Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order
through a distributor. KATHERINE FREY/THE WASHINGTON POST
Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare 2009 BBB Central Coast, Calif., $18 With just the slightest tinge of pink, this would be easy to mistake for a white wine. But then flavors of tangerine peel and strawberry emerge briefly before the wine reveals a surprisingly strong mineral core. Curious
consumers can compare the old and new styles by searching out the 2008 vintage; the 2009 has only just arrived on the market, and the Maryland distributor is still selling the 2008.
Country Vintner in the District and Virginia; Bacchus in Maryland: Available in the District (2009) at Calvert Woodley, Whole Foods Market Glover Park; available in Virginia at Fern Street Gourmet and the Winery in Alexandria. Available in Maryland (2008, $13) at Dawson’s Liquors in Severna Park, Eastport Liquors in Annapolis, Columbia Palace Wine & Spirits in Columbia, Rip’s Wine and Spirit Shop in Bowie; on the list at the Inn at Perry Cabin in St. Michaels.
Robert Oatley Rosé of Sangiovese 2009 BB1
⁄2
Mudgee, Australia, $16 Unfortunately, this wine is not widely available, but it should be. I generally am not a fan of Australian rosés, which tend to taste as though the winemakers were dumping steroids into the fermentation tanks. This one,
however, shows restraint and remains fresh and invigorating on the palate.
Republic National: Available in the District at Morris Miller Wine & Liquor; on the list at Asia Nine, Art and Soul, Neyla. Available in Virginia (2008, $17) at Rick’s Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria; on the list at Bastille in Alexandria.
Wolffer Estate Rosé Table Wine 2009 BB1
⁄2
Long Island, N.Y., $15 This is almost as pale as the Bonny Doon, perhaps because it is one-third chardonnay, with the rest merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Winemaker Roman Roth is not following a classic rosé model, but he has
crafted a wine with excellent acidity and vibrant fruit.
Winebow: Available in the District at Dupont Market, Pearson’s, Rodman’s; on the list at Agraria, Blue Duck Tavern, Firefly, Founding Farmers, Vidalia.
2009 is certified biodynamic and made primarily from grenache, with some cinsault, grenache blanc and roussanne. The gre- nache was left on the skins after pressing for a mere two hours, instead of the eight to 12 hours in what Grahm calls “the dark old days.”
Back then, he says, “we would
sometimes add a small percent- age of red wine to correct the col- or, believing erroneously that our customers expected a wine that was a beautiful deep-pink color. The ’09 is much paler and far less fruity than previous vintages. It has much greater elegance and restraint. It is more vinous, with a greater mineral aspect.” Like all Bonny Doon wines now, it was
fermented using only indigenous yeast.
Dooniacs should approach the
new vin gris with an open mind. It would be a mistake to view the pale hue as a sign of weakness, for while the 2009 is not as juicy as previous vintages, it nonethe- less displays a subtle power. Rosé usually is a devil-may-care wine, but this one wants you to pay at- tention to its message, one of au- thenticity. Grahm is happy with his tin-
kering, yet he is still a little wor- ried about how the market will react. “This is so much closer to the wine I want to be making,” he says. “It feels absolutely great to be making more-natural wines
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with minimal manipulation. There is just a greater frankness to the wines, which I’m hoping and trusting our customers will appreciate.”
McIntyre can be reached at food@
washpost.com.
Alexander Valley Vineyards Dry Rosé of Sangiovese 2009 BB Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, Calif., $14 It’s a full-bodied and deeply colored rosé, bursting with fruit. Exuberant and fun.
Bacchus: Available in the District at Bell Wine & Spirits, Circle Wine & Liquor, Cork & Fork, Georgetown Wine & Spirits, Magruders, Modern Liquors, Pearson’s, S&R Liquors, Wagshal’s Market, Watergate Wine & Beverage; on the list at Morrison Clark Inn, Ris, Rosemary’s Thyme Bistro, Sonoma Restaurant & Wine Bar, Vinoteca. Available in Maryland at Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits in Annapolis, Calvert Discount Liquors in Cockeysville, Fishpaws MarketPlace in Arnold, Town & Country Wine Liquor Etc. in Easton, Wine Cellars of Annapolis, and Eddie’s of Roland Park, North Charles Fine Wine & Spirits and the Wine Source in Baltimore; on the list at Ava’s Pizzeria and Wine Bar in St. Michaels, Boatyard Bar & Grill in Annapolis, V-No in Baltimore.
Shane “Ma Fille” Rosé 2009 BB
Sonoma County, Calif., $20 Syrah specialist Shane Finley makes a deeply colored rosé that tends to more exotic fruits such as pomegranate, with hints of clove and sandalwood. Bold and intriguing, with bitter orange flavor that yields to a slightly sweet finish, this wine deserves food and should do well with most grilled dishes. Only 250 cases were produced.
Nice Legs: Available in the District at Chat’s Liquors, Cork & Fork, D’Vines, De Vinos; on the list at BlackSalt, Mendocino Grille & Wine Bar. Available in Maryland at Frederick Wine House. Available in Virginia at Norm’s Beer & Wine in Vienna, Organic Butcher of McLean, the Vineyard in McLean, Unwined in Alexandria and Belleview; on the list at Willow.
Francis Coppola Sofia Rosé 2008 B1
⁄2
Monterey County, Calif., $15 This should appeal to those who prefer a rosé with definite sweetness. Deep pink; strawberry and watermelon fruit; a candied finish.
Republic National: Available in the District at various Harris Teeter locations, Pearson’s. Available in Virginia at various Total Wine & More locations, Wegmans in Sterling, Harris Teeter in Reston.
W
MG PG VA
Drink
Ten must-have bottles SPIRITS
Jason Wilson
rite critical appraisals of anything — books, songs, shoes, perfume,
cigars — and sooner or later, somebody will ask The Ques- tion:
If you were stranded on a desert island, what five [FILL IN THE BLANK] would you want with you?
I always cringe when I hear it. First of all, if I were truly stranded, I would wish for a very fast boat, a satellite phone, sunscreen, Ginger and Mary Ann. But I understand that The Question is not literal. Second, my home liquor cabi-
net contains more than 200 bot- tles, and I’m not counting the Closet of Shame, where I keep crazy-flavored vodkas and un- fortunate liqueurs. So forgive me; I always find The Question’s total of five very limiting. Last month I was reading the
current issue of the influential trade newsletter Spirit Journal, in which critic F. Paul Pacult (whom I profiled in 2008) pub- lished his annual list of the “130 Best Spirits in the World.” In ad- dition, he listed five “Trapped- on-a-Desert-Island” spirits he couldn’t survive without. I blogged about his list a few weeks ago and decided it was time to come up with my own. It was far more difficult than
I’d imagined. Are we talking about five bottles for sipping, or for mixing? If it was an expens- es-be-damned, sipping-only list, I might go for Four Roses Single Barrel bourbon ($50), Bunna- habhain 18-year-old Scotch ($100), Siete Leguas D’Antaño Extra Añejo tequila ($200), Rog- er Groult Doyen d’Age Calvados ($240) and Pierre Ferrand’s 70- year-old Ancestrale cognac ($750).
But those seem a little stuffy for island living. I could take along 20 great bottles for the price of that Ancestrale. What if I want to invite the guys and girls over from neighboring is- lands for a little get-together? I think I’d like to set up more of a proper bar on my island. I decided to expand The Question a little bit, so here are my top 10 desert-island spirits. Instead of opting for fantasy, I chose the bottles I use the most at home: great for mixing cock- tails, but also no slouches to sip on their own. The most expen- sive bottle on the list costs about $40. In fact, as I compiled this, I also realized that anyone look- ing to set up a home bar would do well to seek out these 10 bot- tles. I get lots of e-mails from people asking for basic advice on a bar that won’t break the bank. If you spring for the whole list, you’ll be able to stock up on lemons, limes, Angostura and orange bitters, olives, club soda and tonic water, and still have a fully stocked bar for well under $300.
El Tesoro de Don Felipe Blanco Tequila ($40). It always surprises people how expensive good, 100 percent agave tequila is, but I find this one is always worth the money. Its fresh, pep- pery nose is beautiful, equally delicious in a margarita or neat, accompanied by sangrita. Plymouth Gin ($30). It’s a close call between this and Tan- queray. I would be fine with ei- ther. Plymouth, however, is much more subtle and, to my taste, makes a slightly finer martini. Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey ($25). One of the best values in the world, with a spiciness and finish you’d expect from more expensive whiskey. There might be more complex bourbons, but few are more versatile. Beautiful in an Old Fashioned or simply alone with a couple of ice cubes. Russell’s Reserve 6 Year Old
Rye Whiskey ($25). Because I love Manhattans, I’ve tried lots of rye whiskeys. There are cer- tainly cheaper (Rittenhouse Rye at $16) and more expensive mi- cro-distilled brands. But this one feels just right. Flor de Caña Grand Reserve
7 Year Old ($25). Yes, you can spend a lot more money on rum. But why should you? This old fa- vorite of mine from Nicaragua is great in a mojito or daiquiri, or simply served with ginger beer or tonic water, ice and a squeeze of lime. Laird’s Bonded Straight Ap- ple Brandy ($22). Over the years, I’ve come to view apple brandy as indispensable be- cause of cocktails such the Jack Rose and Apple Brandy Old Fashioned or the odd Della Mel- la, mixed with the bitter Italian soda chinotto. Cointreau ($35). Perhaps the one must-have liqueur for mix- ing margaritas, Cosmopolitans and the rum-based El Presi- dente. Campari ($30). These are deeply personal choices as we move into bitters and liqueurs, but I wouldn’t want to be stranded without the means to makea Negroni (using my gin along with sweet vermouth) or, better yet, a Boulevardier (with my bourbon) or Agavoni (with my tequila). Vermouths, dry and sweet ($8). Okay, so this is two bottles. But I’ll need at least Noilly Prat dry vermouth and Martini sweet vermouth, because about a million cocktails call for one or the other, and it would be a long island stay without them. If a boat arrived and upgraded me to Dolin ($15; dry and sweet), I would also be happy. The worst part, in fact, about being stranded would be that my vermouth would start to spoil. Remember: Replace it at least once a month.
Follow Wilson on Twitter:
www.twitter. com/boozecolumnist. His book, “Boozehound,” is to be published in September by Ten Speed Press.
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Some years ago, the top growers in Tierra de Barros pooled their resources and decided to focus on creating ultra-fresh, joven, (“youthful”) style wines. The delightful 2008 Emperador de Barros Tempranillo shows the wisdom of this decision. Luminously fruity, it’s packed to the core with spicy Tempranillo fruit highlighted by aromas of fresh grapes, blackberry and cherry. Crisp, light tannins provide an energetic finish.
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